If You Love Something, Set it Free

By: Tony Blando 

Richard Bach is an American writer who wrote some bestsellers in the 1970s, including “Jonathan Livingston Seagull” and “Illusions: The Adventures of a Reluctant Messiah.” I very much enjoyed these as they are chock full of wise quotes that can be applied to everyday life. 

You can find these little nuggets by simply Googling “quotes by Richard Bach.” That way, you don’t even have to read the books to become as smart as me. Just kidding. Seriously, there are lots of great quotes, but here are a few of my favorites:

“Bad things are not the worst thing that can happen to us. Nothing is the worst thing that can happen to us.”

“You are never given a wish without also being given the power to make it come true. You may have to work for it, however.”

“Avoid problems and you’ll never be the one who overcame them.”

I’m guessing some of you may never have heard of Richard Bach and these quotes may be new, but I’d bet many of you will recognize this one:

“If you love something, set it free; if it comes back, it’s yours; if it doesn’t, it never was.”

I don’t know when Bach first wrote these wise words, but I do know the first time I saw them was in the mid-1980s while I was stationed in Georgia — and even then it wasn’t the actual quote, but another version some redneck had altered.

I recall the day I first read it while bass fishing with one of my Army buddies. He had a shirt that said, “If you love something, set it free; if it comes back, it’s yours; if it doesn’t, hunt it down and kill it.” That version was funny at the time, while the accurate version seemed a little corny.

But time and circumstances change things, and I found that quote quite useful while raising three

daughters and helping them navigate the drama of dating and breaking up in high school. When I struggled to find words to console them, I knew I could always reassure them by saying, “If you love something, set it free; if it comes back, it’s yours; if it doesn’t, it never was.” I said those words, but I thought the other version because I really wanted to hunt down the snot-nosed punk who hurt my little girl’s feelings.

I saw the original quote again recently on a greeting card, and I couldn’t help but think about those early Army years and the time I first saw the altered version on my buddy’s t-shirt while bass fishing.

Back then, when I wasn’t working, I hunted and fished every chance I got. I especially became hooked on bass fishing, and my only goal at the time was to catch a “hog” larger than 10 pounds. Although I came very close several times, the biggest I ever caught was a 9 pound, 8 ounce slob. I also caught a whole bunch of fish in the 7 to 8-pound range. Yippee for me. It was nice to brag about those fish then and it was even cooler driving around the Army base showing my large female dead fish to all my buddies because, I’m embarrassed to say, I kept every one of them to mount, to eat or both. We all did back then.

I know. Some of you are thinking, “Blando — you actually kept large female spawning bass? Didn’t you believe in catch and release?” If you asked me today, I would say, “Of course I do!” But it was different back then because neither I, or anyone I fished with, had ever heard of catch and release — just like we didn’t know about quality deer management (QDM) then either.

In 1988, I was proud to bring the fish in the pictures below home to my fiancée.   It might be hard for you to get beyond those glasses I’m rocking, the goofy hat or those dorky shorts, but take a look at the series of three pictures. In the first picture, I’m holding a large female bass in the 7-8 pound range. In the next, the one with the sinister look on my face, I’m cleaning the fish that should still be swimming around laying eggs. And in the final picture, I’m posing for my future wife with a “see what a great provider I will be” look. 

We never thought about the future back then. We only thought about bringing home the big one to show family and friends, catching enough fish for dinner, and stocking our freezers for future meals with fish of any size.

Fortunately, times have changed for the better. My research indicates the practice of catch and release started sometime in the 1950s – but I don’t think I ever heard the term until some time in the 1990s, and even then it seemed to be something that only musky fisherman were concerned with.

I read somewhere that a female largemouth bass will lay between 2,000 and 7,000 eggs per pound of body weight. Do the math and that means a 7 to 8-pound bass, like the one I kept in Georgia, would lay somewhere between 14,000 and 56,000 eggs. I’m still kicking myself for keeping that fish.

I’ve had similar experiences with walleye. One of my fondest memories was an ice fishing tournament in the late 1970s on Pewaukee Lake. Fishing with my dad and brothers was always memorable, but this particular day remains very vivid because my dad took the top prize with an 8-pound walleye he caught on a Beaver Dam tip-up. We had that one mounted and probably ate the fillets as well.

Now I don’t know how many eggs a female walleye lays, but the Wisconsin DNR website indicates an average of around 50,000. Had we let that fish go, we’d probably still be fishing for her great-great-grandfishies today.

Today, most fishermen I know let these spawning females go. Please don’t think I’m judging you if you keep them. As the Gospel according to Matthew says, “Take the plank out of your eye before you try taking the speck out of mine.” Lord knows, in regard to this subject, I have multiple planks in both eyes, so I certainly won’t begrudge you for keeping large spawning females of any species.

Unlike 30 years ago, I now practice “catch and release,” at least for any large females and even small ones if they have a belly full of spawn. I love fishing and I love to catch large fish and I’m guessing most of you feel the same. I know that the odds are good that if I let these fish go, they will come back. Maybe not that specific female fish, but she will return in the form of her offspring and her offspring’s offspring and her offspring’s offspring’s offspring and so on and so on.

I also love my kids and will love my future grandkids and I can help ensure their fishing futures by only taking what I will eat and releasing those fish that will produce future generations for them to catch.

I hope you will consider doing the same.

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Color Contrast in Training 

There are No Grey Areas 

By: Jeremy Moore

Chances are, if you look outside this time of year, you are going to see white, a lot of white.  In our home state of Wisconsin, deer seasons have come to an end for the most part and we are moving on to the next season of outdoor activities; most of which include ice and or snow.  These are also the kind of conditions that make most professional dog trainers load up their trailers and head south.  But for trainers and dog owners like myself, these are the conditions I look forward to during those potentially hot, humid months of June, July and August.   

I can’t wait for cold temperatures, which allow me to exercise and actively work dogs on quartering and casting with little or no concern for overheating and exhaustion.  When I say quartering and casting, most think of their upland dogs working the CRP for roosters or the tag alders in hopes of flushing the King.  But, much like the deer season, the small game season has come and gone this time of year as well.     

So, what’s next on the list for our dogs and I?  With the close of the deer season, I immediately shift into the mode of shed-hunting season.  My approach to preparing our dogs to pick up antlers will be picking up right where we left off during bird season.  In fact, one way I prepare my shed dogs for spring is no different than working my dogs for birds.  I can take the quartering and casting drills we’ve been using to prepare our flushers and simply change from bumpers or birds to antler dummies and real antlers if the dog is ready.  

For many like myself, shed season can be as much, or maybe even more exciting to look forward to than deer season.  It happens at a time of the year when we are limited as to what other “hunting” we could be doing and it’s a great way to spend time working our dogs.  I am asked often whether or not shed hunting with them will affect their bird hunting.  My answer, yes, I think it does…in a very positive way.    

I look at my dogs like they are my kids in many ways.  In fact, I know some dog owners that may prefer their dogs over their kids!  One of the ways I look at my dogs as I would my kids is when it comes to their hunting being relative to kids playing sports.  I have always been a believer in the idea of kids that play multiple sports develop into better overall athletes.  I think this happens because different sports require different skill sets, different muscle development, use different styles and types of coordination and different meanings and understandings of the concept of a “team.”  Better athletes will typically excel at sports, so by developing my dog into a better athlete/hunter, ultimately I am developing them to excel in sports/hunting.  A dog that I can use to hunt birds and track deer in the fall, hunt and find sheds in the spring, and have with us on family trips to the lake in the summer, is the perfect “athlete” for me.  Overall, I think that all of these activities build off of and help strengthen each other.   

So, what are some ways we can prepare now for that transition from fall to spring and how can you use the snow that is likely to be around to your advantage in training?   One easy and obvious way is by using color contrast for training.  The white of the snow is clearly going to cover and hide sheds visible to the eye.  It can also create issues with white training dummies and white antlers on the surface as they blend in and become “camouflaged” easily.  At times, this can be a struggle for us as trainers when setting our dogs up for success.  No different than when we start young bird dogs, we use the right tools to help us find that success.  Bright white bumpers with young retrievers are helpful to ensure our young dogs are able to find those early retrieves and develop confidence.  Later in training, we may use feather-laced bumpers that not only add realistic scent, but also make the bumpers blend into cover using nature’s camouflage.   When working in snow conditions with my young or inexperienced shed dogs, I use a contrasting colored bumper, or in this case I use a brown training dummy that will surely stand out against the white snow.  Prior to snow being on the ground, when the woods and fields are predominantly brown and grey, the bright white antler dummy stands out and makes for a great opportunity for our young dogs to find success visually.   

Shed hunters know it’s not uncommon to find antlers varying in color from nearly chalk white to the richest of dark browns.  Shed hunters dream of the dark chocolate color finds that North Country bucks are famous for.  And when they are down in the prairies of the Dakotas, Nebraska and Kansas, it’s not uncommon to find a fresh shed that appears to be nearly bleached white.  There is an old saying in sports that you need to “practice like you play.”  When it comes to training dogs, I think that saying is true as well.  By using a variety of colors in your shed training both with the antler dummies as well as with real sheds, you are able to control and prepare your dogs for success when it comes to the real thing in the field.  Keep this in mind when you’re preparing for the next few months of shed season and you will be much more likely to produce on your trips to the field whether there’s snow on the ground or not.   

For much more information on training and training products available for game recovery be sure to check out our website (www.dogbonehunter.com) and social media outlets @dogbonehunter.  Best of luck in the woods! 

–Jeremy Moore 

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Water Hyacinth

It’s Here . . . and It’s Bad!

By Lawanda Jungwirth

Well, this one snuck up on us!  Invasive water hyacinth has been a huge problem in the lakes, rivers and streams of Africa, South America and the southeastern United States for many years.  We thought we were protected from it up here in Wisconsin above the 40^th parallel, the supposed northernmost reach of the plant.  We were mistaken.

Whether the fact that water hyacinth is now able to flourish this far north is due to climate change or that the plant has somehow adapted to cooler temperatures is irrelevant.  What is relevant is that it’s here in Wisconsin and it has the potential to cause as much trouble as it has in warmer climates.

Like many invasive plants, water hyacinth was intentionally brought into the United States.  Way back in 1884 it was introduced as an ornamental plant for water gardens at the Cotton States Expo in New Orleans.  It escaped the confines of backyard water gardens and has become a serious weed of rivers, lakes, ponds, canals and reservoirs.  As far back as the 1940s, the state of Louisiana was experiencing losses of $75 million a year due to water hyacinth.

Large floating mats of water hyacinth displace native plants and animals, cause economic hardships to communities that depend on fishing and water sports for revenue, decrease waterfront property values, interfere with hunting, fishing, boating and other water sports, clog irrigation pumps and water supply pipelines and impede runoff and water circulation.  The mats become mosquito factories, creating calm water for larvae to proliferate while denying access to mosquito larvae predators.  Mats are so dense that they decrease light to submerged plants, depleting the water and animals that live in it of oxygen.  Shifting mats have been known to prevent boaters from reaching their docks, stranding them offshore.

Water hyacinth is an erect, free-floating perennial plant.  It has thick, green, oval, waxy leaves up to 6” wide.  Leaves form rosettes that can rise 1-3 feet above the surface of the water.  Pretty six-petaled flowers are lavender blue with a yellow blotch on one petal of each flower.  Up to 23 flowers may occur on a single spike.  Feathery roots are submersed below water and are blue-black to dark purple.

The flowers last about 14 days, after which the stalks bend down to release seeds into the water.  A single plant can produce as many as 5,000 seeds.  The small seeds sink and bury themselves in sediment below.  No worries if conditions aren’t right for germination – seeds can remain viable for 15-20 years.

The bad news is that seeds aren’t even the main way that water hyacinth plants reproduce.  They also reproduce vegetatively, by producing daughter plants.  In four months, two water hyacinth plants can produce 1,200 daughter plants.  A population can double in as little as six days.  A healthy acre of water hyacinth can weigh up to 200 tons, and still remain afloat!

Water hyacinth supports little native wildlife and has few pests.  It can tolerate extremes of water levels, flow velocity, water temperature, pH and nutrient availability.  How do you fight that?

The USDA has introduced two weevils, a moth, a mite and a fungus to try to control it, but the going is slow.  These biological controls work just fine, but often can’t keep up with the explosive spread of water hyacinth.  And just because the weevils, moths, mites and fungi are successful in warm climates doesn’t mean they can survive in cooler climates to do their good work.  Pesticides have been used liberally and successfully to control water hyacinth in many areas, but they have a nasty way of killing everything they touch, including important native plants and animals.

For small infestations, the best way to control water hyacinth is to physically remove it before it flowers and sets seed.  You can do this.  Get out in your boat and haul it aboard.  Take it home and let it dry out on a hard surface like your driveway before composting, burning or trashing it.

In autumn of 2015, water hyacinth was discovered near Winneconne at the confluence of the Wolf River and Lakes Winneconne and Butte des Morts, thanks to the sharp eyes of waterfront property owner Valerie Stabenow.  She immediately reported her find to the DNR and within days a team of people from the DNR, UW-Extension and other agencies interested in aquatic invasives arrived to scout the area and physically remove the plants.  Because of the early discovery and the quick response, the spread was contained before it became uncontrollable.  However, in 2016 and in years to follow, monitoring will be necessary to be certain that it doesn’t return and gain a foothold.  This is especially important since it wasn’t discovered in this area until October when it had already flowered and set seed for the year.

Winneconne is a small village of 2,400 people that relies extensively on boaters, water skiers, jet skiers, swimmers, fishermen and waterfowl hunters to support its economy.  It’s no exaggeration to say that if left unchecked, water hyacinth has the ability to shutter the town in a very short period of time.  And that would be bad.

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Water Hyacinth is PROHIBITED in Wisconsin.  This means you are not allowed to possess, transfer, transport or introduce it.  You may possess and transport it in the process of working to remove it.  If you have it in your pond or water garden, GET RID OF IT by removing it and letting it dry out before composting, burning or trashing it.

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If you discover water hyacinth in a lake, river or stream in Wisconsin PLEASE report it to the DNR IMMEDIATELY.  Go to this website or call your local DNR office:

http://dnr.wi.gov/topic/Invasives/report.html

You can help stop the spread of aquatic invasive plants!

• Rinse mud and debris from equipment and wading gear and drain water from boats before leaving the launch area.
• Remove all plant fragments from your boat, propeller, and boat trailer. The transportation of plant material on boats, trailers, and in live wells is the main introduction route to new lakes and rivers.
• Do not release aquarium or water garden plants into the wild. Instead, seal them in a plastic bag and dispose in the trash.
• Use plants native to Wisconsin in aquariums and water gardens.

The post Water Hyacinth appeared first on Morning Moss.

Guide to Prep Your Truck for Towing During Summer in Wisconsin

Prepping your truck for summer is important for all your recreational activities.

Anytime you hook up your trailer, boat, or camper to your truck, the possibilities for Wisconsin summertime fun and adventures quickly multiply. However, it’s always important to properly prep your truck before you hit the road.

It is all too easy to focus on what you’re towing rather than on the vehicle doing the work. Towing a boat, trailer, or camper tests your truck’s engine, transmission, suspension, tires, brakes, and more.

5 Tips for Prepping Your Truck

As you navigate through the next sharp turn on your upcoming adventure, you’ll want to do so with the utmost confidence. Here are five important ways to prep your used truck for successful towing.

1. Get a multi-point inspection

Towing problems ruin the joy of a great road trip. So, start with a complete multi-point inspection by a certified local mechanic you trust. Discuss your towing plans at the car dealership, marina, or RV center to get some expert advice.

A proper brake inspection is essential given the extra pressure towing exerts on the braking system. When you’re surging downhill in a rainstorm, you don’t want to be wondering about your brakes.

It is also important to make sure your cooling system is in tip-top shape. No one enjoys being stranded along the side of the road with steam rising from under the hood. Don’t overlook the little things like your truck’s wipers and fluid levels. Get an oil change, and go with a high-quality synthetic or synthetic blend.

2. Use the right hitch

Be careful not to underestimate your trailer hitch requirements. For safety’s sake, respect ratings regarding gross trailer weight (GTW) and maximum tongue weight.

There’s quite a range of towing capacities, identified by classes one through five. A Class 1 hitch is rated at 2,000 lb. GTW and 200 lb. tongue weight, while a Class 5 hitch is rated at many times this level. Keep in mind that GTW includes possessions onboard along with the contents of any water tanks. Also, it is important to realize that tongue weight is related to load placement and balance.

Consult with the experts to determine what type of trailer hitch you need:

• Weight-carrying hitch
• Weight-distributing hitch
• Gooseneck hitch

A gooseneck hitch is often ideal for heavy-duty towing. Its location and design allow it to handle the maximums allowed by law.

3. Select the right tires

For safe and reliable towing, your truck’s tires require:

• Proper inflation
• Adequate tread
• A sufficient load rating

Properly inflated tires will run cooler, while those with adequate tread will hold the road better under difficult circumstances. Always run on tires with at least the tire speed rating and load index of the original tires.

Heat build-up and potential tire failure are a real concern when towing significant loads. Sudden tire problems can make it difficult to control your truck and trailer.

4. Check trailer wiring and harness

Check to confirm that your vehicle’s wiring harness is in good working order. Tail lights and brake lights on your trailer must work in all weather conditions. To prevent corrosion and maintain a good connection, spray contacts with dielectric grease.

5. Prep your truck with an upgrade

Sometimes, the best way prep your truck for towing is to upgrade or add equipment. To better handle a bigger trailer, consider various upgrades, like:

• Adding an intercooler or upgrading
• Selecting an auxiliary engine oil cooler
• Installing a larger radiator
• Upgrading the engine control unit (ECU) to coax more power out of your engine
• Adding a high-flow aftermarket cold-air intake

Once your truck is prepped and ready to go, check out these tips from Popular Mechanics for setting up your trailer.

Check Out Our Inventory of Used Cars, Trucks, and SUVs

Look to 199ride for a Nicer, Newer, Worry-Free pre-owned vehicle for all your adventures. We have five Wisconsin dealerships ready to serve you: Green Bay, Appleton, Wausau, Antigo, and La Crosse. Check out our extensive used car inventory to find exactly what you’re looking for!

The post 199ride’s Guide to Prep Your Truck for Towing During Summer in Wisconsin appeared first on Morning Moss.

5 Simple Spreads for Waterfowl

Ducks Unlimited gives you a fantastic article on 5 simple spreads that will help you become more successful hunting this fall!

Click Here

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Raising dogs…slowing down speeds things up 

By: Jeremy Moore 

As a professional dog trainer, I’ve been able to work with various breeds of a large number of dogs over the years, ranging from 7 week-old puppies to dogs as old as 10 years or more.  I strongly believe that one of the only ways to get better at anything, whether you’re talking dog training specifically or life in general, is to put in the work.  And more times than not, the whole “work” part is where things start to get hard!  Thankfully, I’ve had a lot of opportunities to put that work in when it comes to the dogs.  And, consequently, I know I have gotten a lot better as the years passed.  As I have personally improved, the dogs have mirrored that improvement as well.  Today, I can say with strong confidence that when I have a chance to work with a puppy or dog, I will be a positive influence on them and my hope is they are better off because of it as well.   

But what about the people when it comes to training?  I think that one of the most overlooked factors when it comes to training, or as I prefer to say, “raising” dogs or pups, is the importance of what the trainer brings to the equation.  One of the most desirable traits all dogs possess is that they want to please and are naturally looking for a strong leader.  That is simply how they are wired.  On the opposite hand, one trait that they also have because of this wiring is if they don’t find a leader they will become the leader.   

The great majority of training topics and articles I have written over the years and have read for that matter, have revolved around dogs in the field and how we prepare them for “the hunt”.  It’s the hunt that is the most fun to talk about.  It’s the hunt that is the most exciting.   And why not? I mean, the hunt is what so many of us have as the end goal right?  The hunt is the fun part, and in all reality the hunt is what comes the easiest for most dogs.  Hunting has been bred into them for centuries and is relatively natural.  As their handler, our job is to simply bring it out.  It’s the other stuff, beyond or before the hunt, that most struggle with and typically that is the reason things fall short.    

Although the majority of what I have read and written about has focused on the hunt, what’s interesting to me is that the great majority of questions I receive by phone call, text, posts or direct message on the various social platforms, and even when face to face at seminars and shows is centered around the basics.  It seems most struggles and headaches are not due to dogs that won’t handle well on challenging doubles and blind retrieves.  It’s rare that I am asked what to do when your dog stops to the whistle out beyond 100 yards but doesn’t want to face you in order to take a good hand signal.  (Recall the dog a step or two in order to square them up, stop them again and then cast…btw)  Instead, the questions that come up over and over are almost always related to their dog’s foundation, or more accurately their lack of foundation.   

Now, I’m certain that the direction this article is taking following that last line will have some folks turning the page.  Nowhere ever, have I read about the idea of “foundation” being described as exciting, fun, easy, or the overall end goal.  But the truth is, most struggles are directly connected and the majority of dog owner’s struggles are rooted there.  I also find that the reason most struggle with the foundation is because they just don’t know how or what to do in most situations.   

One of the most commonly asked questions I get about our dogs is, “How do you keep your dogs calm?” This question usually comes when I have multiple dogs ranging in age lying quietly at our feet on their “place” amongst a lot of distractions.  I am asked constantly how to handle pups that are just full of energy?  I hear about how their dogs must need to have more exercise than others but because of work, kids, school…the list goes on, all the reasons they just can’t seem to do enough to wear them out.   I’m asked how much time I spend running my dogs in order for them to always seem to be calm and under control.  The reality is, I wish I were able to run and exercise them more.  In fact, it’s likely that I might give the dogs I’m training less physical exercise than the dogs of those asking the question.   

So, what’s the difference?  I think the difference lies greatly in the culture that the dog is being raised in.  Here is an easy idea to understand-  a dog’s body is no different than the human body when it comes to their athletic conditioning.  The more you exercise, the greater your endurance becomes.  The greater your endurance, the longer it takes you to tire or wear out.  Why would this be any different with your dog?  In an attempt to physically “wear them out,” they are actually conditioning them to simply be better athletes which will in turn take more to tire them.  It’s a snowball effect, in the wrong direction.   

See maybe if this example sounds like something you can relate to:  You got to bed last night later than you had hoped because you stayed up to finish a project for work or school (or you had to finish your article for The Badger Sportsman Magazine…nevermind, that’s me!?!)  You hit the snooze button twice and now you are rushing to get the kid’s lunches made and ready for school or work.  In the midst of all of this, you let the dog out of the kennel and then back in after the morning’s food and water.  Off to work, then back in the evening only by rushing home to let the dog out of the kennel quickly before grabbing a dinner on the fly and then out the door again to basketball, soccer, baseball, football, gymnastics.  Day after day, your specific routines and reasons may vary some, but the pace is constant.  It’s FAST and HIGH ENERGY.  How can you expect your dog to slow down if that’s not the culture you are instilling in them? 

Now your schedule doesn’t have to be exactly like that, but you get the idea.  The speed at which we move and the amount of things we take on these days is scary.  In a lot of ways, it’s great and with the help of technology we’re able to be much more efficient, get more done and pull it all off faster.  But, I have to remind you that dogs are not interested in technology helping them to become more efficient, and getting more things done faster.  We, and our society, have changed greatly over the last several hundred years. However, our dogs have not changed one bit.  They still learn by forming habits and habits are formed by repetition and consistency.  Their behavior is influenced greatly by the culture they are raised in.  That repetition, consistency and culture comes from us as their leader.  When you think about it that way, it’s not a lot different than the process of raising a child.    

I literally see people that are in such a big hurry with their lives schedule, they will jump on an ATV or UTV in order to get their dog’s walk in (which ends up being a sprint).  Look back on what happens before these runs.  The dogs go from zero to 100 miles per hour when they are in any kind of contact with us because they match our pace.  When we take dogs out in a hurry and have them run for miles behind an ATV with the idea that they need the exercise and that this will help “burn off energy,” I think the owner’s heart is in the right place, but unfortunately they’re trying to put out the fire by pouring gasoline on it.  The faster, harder and more you run your dog, the faster, harder and more your dog will be able to run. 

So what can you do? I do think there are a few easy things we can do to work on this by simply changing the culture.  But if you remember what I mentioned early on in this article, “More times than not, the whole work part, that’s where things start to get hard!”  We need to take a good look at our lives and how we operate day to day.  Think about your schedule and instead of simply trying to figure out how to get more miles in, see how well your dog can focus while covering a 1/10 of the distance, but under great control while in the heel position.  Vary and set the pace in everything you do.  When your dog is part of the equation, slow that pace down. If your dog wants to go fast (and the “excitable” ones usually do) you need to slow down to counter that.   

In training, I often talk about the importance of balance.  This is another example of when it needs to be found.  You might break up the walk with 2-3 minutes of just sitting still.  Two or three minutes doesn’t sound like much, but if you’re used to a fast pace with everything you do all day long, stopping and standing still for that amount of time can feel like an eternity.  From that, add layers into the exercise that will challenge your dog to have to think about what they are doing instead of just mindless physical exercise.  Mentally stimulating our dogs within their routine of physical stimulation can be by far the most effective way to “wear them out”.  By simply doing a few things like this, you begin to work towards building patience in both your dog as well as in yourself.         

The best way I have found to speed things up when it comes to raising dogs is very simple…just slow things down.  Best of luck to you in your training!  

Jeremy Moore 

The post Raising Dogs appeared first on Morning Moss.

I-Pilot Technology

Kyle Sorensen with OB Outdoors talks about the benefits of using the I-Pilot feature on your minnkota trolling motor specifically for trolling! Don’t miss out on the LIVE CATCH during the interview!

The post Minnkota I-Pilot Technology appeared first on Morning Moss.

THE DOG DAYS OF SUMMER 

It is very important to know that your furry best friend does not necessarily enjoy the extreme heat this time of year. How hot is too hot you might ask. Anything over 70 degrees in the direct sunlight may cause your dog to overheat. Dogs with longer, thicker coats, black in color, dogs that are out of shape, or overweight have better chances of overheating. It is our duty as good pet owners to make sure our dogs are in a ventilated crate or dog carrier with good air movement. If your dog needs to be outside in this kind of heat, placing them in the shade is best. I like to train in areas where there is a big tree that will keep me out of the direct sunlight. The direct sun has a lot of power that really makes a hot day a scorcher.

If dogs and heat were not an important subject, we would not make it illegal to leave our animals in extreme heat or cold conditions without proper ventilation.   If you ever see a dog in a vehicle that has all the windows rolled up and the dog is locked in without water or proper ventilation, please call the police and rescue this animal. I would hate to know the outcome of this incident if you did not.

When we are working with our dogs, we are typically just walking. In the summer heat, I try to avoid running most of the time. Spring and summer air is full of pollen, rag weed, and other pollutants that can make it difficult to breathe. You yourself may experience seasonal allergies in spring causing heavy breathing, runny nose and itchy, watery eyes. This can be similar for dogs when they get into the thick, tall, covered foliage. The air can be very dense making it very hard to breathe and obtain oxygen. The dog starts to use his or her mouth more than their nose; similar to us when we are “stuffed up.” This dense air causes the dog’s tongue to hang out making it very hard to use their natural capabilities, like scenting the bird. When they do find a bird, the dog must use their mouth to pick it up. This may be more difficult for them because they are already panting. Panting actually is the dog’s way of helping himself cool down.

Another great way to cool your best friend down is to do a little water training. I like to use fresh or frozen birds to prevent dogs from blinking or chewing them.   A nasty bird, when used for training, can make it worse for you and also create a bad habit.   Chomping and chewing on birds is just another habit that can be avoided. Before a big run, or after, to help cool them down is your best chance to create a much better water entry for your dog. Or, you may have to get in and assist in teaching them to swim.

Believe it or not, young dogs need to learn to swim. It just doesn’t happen overnight. Some dogs just do not like water at all.   If possible, walk in with them to let them know it’s safe or let another friendly dog out that likes to swim to show that it’s ok. Shallower, less deep water is also certainly better than a huge drop-off.   What commonly happens is that a dog is doing what I like to call “puppy paddling” which is when the dog is just trying to touch the bottom with the hind legs while the front two legs are paddling at the top making more splashes and the dog is looking up. At some point, the dog will have to learn to level out. There are some tricks to teach that, but let me get back to dogs and overheating.   Things to watch for in cases of an overheated dog are vomiting, drooling, being wobbly and falling over. If you notice any of these symptoms in your dog, you must get them in a cool place and cool them down.   You should immediately give them water. Also try to pour water on chest, stomach, and hind legs, to cool them down. A good way to check on this is to check a dog’s temperature to see how hot your dog really is. A normal temperature should be 101 degrees. When you see a rise in temperature by a few degrees, it’s time to cool down. If the dog doesn’t seem to be cooling down, you should call your vet to get your dog in.

When working with your dog in the summer months, the best time to work with him/her is early mornings or late evenings. Sometimes, if it’s really just way too hot; stay home. Work on training inside where it’s cool. You can work on obedience, place board, or delivery to hand items in and out of the mouth anywhere you would like. Doing these trainings inside will make the field work better in the future.   The trouble of this is, a dog will work and work until you stop them because all they really want to do is please you. If you don’t make the correct decision of recognizing when your dog has had enough, he or she will end up overheating. If you are questioning your time limit, better to be safe than sorry. It is in both of your best interests to make sure you are keeping them safe and cool. Below is a list of signs to watch out for to keep your dog safe.

Signs to watch for so your dog does not overheat:

1. Panting is a sign your dog is working to cool itself off
2. Dehydration causes the saliva to thicken
3. Rapid heart rate
4. Vomiting
5. Producing only a small amount of urine
6. Diarrhea
7. Shakiness, weakness, or collapsing
8. High Temperature

In conclusion, by following some of my tips, I know that you and your best friend can have a safe and productive summer! It’s more difficult to fit it all in as you need to do shorter sessions, but making sure that you are consistent with your training in the summer will ensure a very happy fall for both of you.

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Layout Duck Hunting

By: Jim Klein

If one has never experienced layout boat hunting, it is definitely an experience that must go on the bucket list.  We hunt the Bay of Green Bay in layout boats for diver ducks. There is something about having ducks come barreling in at you a foot off the water.  It is truly something that must be seen to believe.

The Bay of Green Bay has become a diver duck hunter’s paradise. People are now coming from all areas near and far to hunt the bay. For example, last year we had people from 12 different states come to the bay to hunt. The main reason the bay has become such a magnet for ducks is the zebra mussel. Ducks will fly into the bay and fuel up on the zebra mussels before taking off for their southern destination.  The ducks use the bay as a preferred layover spot on their long fall trek.

Layout boat hunting on any body of water can be a challenge, but it is also exhilarating. It takes time and commitment to be successful as there is a lot of work involved.  Not only is good equipment needed, but an extensive amount of time is spent scouting for birds every day. When hunting big water like the Bay of Green Bay or Lake Winnebago, good equipment is a must. The weather in the fall can be very tricky and can change at a moment’s notice. Add to this the fact that the temperatures can hover just above freezing.  Poor equipment just adds the chances of there being problems.  But once you gain experience, learn the area, and spend some time, the payoff hunting using this technique can be HUGE!

If you would like to set up for layout boat hunting, here are a few of the things you will need. First, a tender boat, which is used to transport the layout boat in and out of the hunting area. It is also setup away from the layout boat to retrieve any ducks that are taken.  The layout boat is either placed inside the tender boat or on top of it for transport.  The tender boat is also the hub of the entertainment-common phrases such as, “Oops, missed again,” and “Another swing and a miss,” can fill a morning as the shooter in the layout boat blasts away trying to fill a limit.   The tender boat is oftentimes more fun than the layout boat (of course that depends on your group).

Of course, a layout boat will also be needed, and there are a few that are commercially made or there are plans for the do-it-yourselfer to make one.  The layout boat is very important in that it needs to be of quality, comfort and durability. Be sure to do your research and, if possible, try one out before purchasing or building.

Last, but not least, are your decoys. You will need a variety of decoys depending on the species of ducks you wish to hunt. My personal rig has bluebills, canvasbacks and goldeneyes. The most effective way to rig the decoys is what we call gang rings or lines. These are lines that can hold between 10 and 15 decoys per line and can be set and retrieved in a fairly quick manner. There is an anchor on each end of these lines that hold them in place.

The layout boat is usually set with an anchor off the stern and an anchor off the bow. Your decoys are then set according to what shooter is in the boat. What I mean by that is if you have a left-handed shooter, the decoys have to be set so that he or she can easily swing over them, just the opposite of if you have a right-handed shooter. Your decoys should not be farther than 25 to 30 yards from the shooter.  Any further out than that and your chances of crippling the ducks and not being able to retrieve them increases greatly.  It is very important not to have your decoys too far from your layout boat. This also allows your shooter to judge the distance of the birds he or she is trying to shoot.

The layout boat and the tender boat should both have handheld radios and individuals should be in constant communication with each other. The handheld radios and communication are essential to have both a safe hunt and in being able to retrieve all the ducks that are shot.  We also like to have a flag in our layout boat in case there would be a problem with a radio so that the hunter can communicate with the tender boat. There are many other ways to have a successful layout boat hunt, but this style and setup have worked consistently for us over the years.

If one would like to try layout boat hunting before making the investment, it would be wise to hire a licensed guide. Many of my clients have set up their own rigs after hunting with us one or two times. Many people hunt this way once or twice a year just to experience the thrill of shooting ducks at very close ranges. So remember in the fall if you have a hankering to shoot bluebills, redheads, canvasbacks, goldeneyes and even shovelers- give layout boat hunting a try.

If you have any questions or wish to book a hunt, please contact Captain Jim Klein at Bills and Gills Guide Service 920-680-7660.

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Tackle Organization 101…Class is In Session

By: Glenn Walker

Many anglers spend their time during the winter and early spring getting their fishing tackle ready for the next year, while others are just getting their tackle all set for this fishing season. Regardless of the scenario you fall into, there is never a bad time to look over your tackle and make sure it is all organized.

As a tournament fisherman I have found an organized tackle box is one of the most important things to help maximize your time and efficiency on the water. The time you spend in the offseason organizing tackle will aid in you finding the items you need quicker next fishing season, resulting in more fishing time.

To keep my tackle organized in my boat, I use a variety of Lure Lock plastic cases to customize each case for certain bait styles and bodies of water. This way I can easily re-rig rods in the evening before a fishing trip and even more importantly find that key lure when I’m on the water.

For all of my hardbaits – like crankbaits and topwater plugs – along with terminal tackle items like hooks, weights and jigheads, I use the Lure Lock cases that have the proprietary blue gel in the bottom of the case. This gel secures items to the bottom of the case, so as I’m running down the lake, my baits stay in place. The result is fewer damaged lures, or lures with boat rash, and your hook points won’t rub on one another or the side of the plastic case and become dull. Heck, I can even turn the case upside down with tackle in it and they won’t fall out.

Sorting and separating

I organize my crankbaits by how deep they run and style of crankbait. Now if I have a lot of a certain style, I have one case for one color palette and a separate case for another. This is similar for lipless crankbaits as well. I have one case for shad-colored baits and another Lure Lock case with crawfish and chartreuse-colored baits.

I feel organizing your baits in a layout like this is beneficial because you can grab the cases you need for a particular fishing trip and leave the others at home. This way you limit the amount of tackle you are bringing with you, which 1) reduces the amount of clutter and weight in the boat, and 2) keeps you focused on fishing and not always looking for that next lure to tie on.

For my terminal tackle items, I only want to bring enough weights or jigheads to get me through that day on the water, as I can restock that evening. A handful of weights in each size will easily stay secured to the gel in my cases and keep from coming in contact with each other and chipping off the paint chip. The same goes for my shaky head and jig-worm heads. A few heads in the needed sizes will keep the weight in my boat down.

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A Few Tips to Consider For a More Successful Archery Season

By: Todd D. Larson 

With the “Dog Days” of summer upon us here in Wisconsin, I can’t help but let my mind wander a bit and think of the cooler days to come. More specifically, I look forward to when archery season opens up in the middle of September and carries us through the first part of January. For those of us with a passion for shooting bows and letting arrows fly, September 17^th, 2016 can’t get here soon enough. And, when January 8th, 2017 comes to a close, it will find many people dragging their feet and just plain wore out from pursuing the most commonly hunted big game species in North America, the whitetail deer. Some hunters will find success early because they will have done their homework and others, well, they’ll be the ones eating their tags walking around like zombies.

In my 41 seasons of chasing these smart and crafty creatures with a bow, I’ve come to understand a few things that I thought I might share to help others be more successful. Here’s the short list…

The Bow

Purchase what you can afford. Buy a quality bow within your budget that feels good each and every time you shoot it. Spend a little more money if you need to in order to get the right fit and don’t buy a particular bow just because of the brand name on it. Remember that this is an investment and something that you will have to enjoy for many years to come. The first step is to decide on the type of bow you are wanting to shoot, (longbow, recurve or compound). Take your time and shoot as many different styles of bows as possible from the various manufacturers. You can narrow it down pretty quickly once the shooting starts. Go to a quality archery shop that is more interested in fitting you with the proper bow rather than how much money they can talk you out of. Most reputable places will spend as much time with you as needed during the selection process. These are the guys that will take care of you when it comes to tuning your bow, cutting arrows, finding the correct release, arrow rest and quiver and any other accessories that you will need. Their job is to get you set up for success and take care of you quickly if something should happen to any piece of your archery equipment.

Shooting

This is as important, if not more important than the bow you purchase. Shoot regularly and consistently; especially when first getting your bow. Many archery shops now have indoor and/or outdoor ranges which allow you to shoot at different distances and at many different types of targets. It’s a blast and challenging all at the same time. Not only that, but you will meet some great people, all with a common interest who are more than willing to help you out. Remember that proper form is key and having a seasoned archer help you get everything dialed in is really important. It certainly will help take away the frustration associated with learning something new.

Another tip; don’t overshoot. What I mean is simply this: Don’t shoot a hundred arrows the first night in your excitement of getting your new bow. You’ll be too sore to even shoot your bow anytime soon after that, thus making the experience less than enjoyable. Keep in mind that you will be using muscles in your arms, neck and back that will need time to strengthen. As those muscles get stronger, shooting more arrows becomes easier. Your draw weight will increase as well, but keep in mind that you don’t need to shoot heavy poundage.

Shoot a draw weight that is comfortable for you. The way that bows are designed today, the arrow will still get there quickly enough. And, a smoother and quicker draw is the one that will increase your chances of success. When I was younger, I shot a draw weight of 70 lbs. or more. Today it’s around 63 to 65 lbs. It makes sense to me to shoot an arrow more comfortably and more consistently. I’ve also come to realize that a faster arrow is not necessarily a better killing arrow. I don’t shoot as many arrows each night as I use to. I would rather shoot fewer arrows and leave on a good note than shoot too many arrows and have them hit all over the target.

Having confidence in your ability and in your shooting distances is key. Be patient, be consistent and have fun. Each and every shot needs to be your best shot. There have been very few times that I have ever had a second chance at killing a deer that I may have missed with my first shot or have made a poor shot on to begin with. Take your time, breathe, relax and visualize the shot before you release the arrow. Make each and every shot count as you only get one first shot.

Practice shooting in various positions. Standing, sitting and kneeling are the most popular. Keep in mind the type of hunting you will be doing, but practice shooting in different positions and situations. If you are hunting from a ground blind, practice sitting on a chair, inside the blind. If you’re going to be hunting from a tree stand, be sure to practice at the height that your stand will be and always, always, always, wear your safety harness. Be certain to clip into a guide rope as you climb up and down from your tree stand. Learn how different angles affect arrow placement when shooting from above and don’t forget to enjoy the view. Hunting from a tree stand is my favorite type of hunting and has been the most productive for me in Northern Wisconsin. Now that we have your bow picked out and you’re shooting like Fred Bear, let’s take a look at your hunting property. 

Property

You have two choices, public land or private land. If you’re fortunate to have a piece of property that you own or have been able to lease, fantastic! I prefer hunting private land or a lease for a good number of reasons. Here are just a couple.

The first and most important reason is safety. You know (for the most part) that you and/or others you may have given permission to should be the only ones on that property. I’ve had some great leases over the years that I shared with my family and friends. It’s fun, comfortable and safe. I have to say that getting these leases wasn’t very easy. I did acquire most simply by calling on a piece of property that was for sale or by knocking on doors in areas that were of interest to me. Always be kind and courteous, thanking them for their time. Be sure to leave your name and number with them. They may not want to lease this property to you this season but that may change down the road. Be able to face rejection when they tell you “no,” but keep in mind that’s all part of the process and all it takes is that one person to say “yes” to your request and you’ll be on top of the world. Hunting property is getting harder and harder to come by so be patient and put in your time.

The second reason is deer management. You will have a direct impact on the deer that reside there. I’m a firm believer in the Quality Deer Management program that more and more property owners and their neighbors are embracing. If you give these deer a chance to grow and keep a healthy buck to doe ratio in the mix you’ll experience hunting like you’ve never seen. The key to making this work is to get your neighbors involved. Experiment with food plots that will hold deer and create bedding areas for the deer, if space allows. For ten months out of the year, all a whitetail thinks about is a place to eat and sleep that is relatively safe. The other two months are spent chasing or being chased around because of the rut. This is certainly the best and most productive time of the year to hunt. And, when it’s kicked into full gear these are my two favorite weeks of the year. Be sure to put your time in on the stand to increase your chances of success. I guarantee that you will see more than at any other time of the season.

Public land is always a gamble. I will say that a good number of deer are harvested on public land. The key to success here is to get off the beaten path and go find those places that other hunters have no desire to be in. You’ll be farther away from your competition and be closer to where these big deer like to hang out. They like solitude, safety and comfort next to a feeding area. Find that place and you’ll find success. Check the laws for using and hanging stands or putting up ground blinds on public property. Know that you are not going to be the only hunter out there and be willing to accept the fact that others may wander in what you like to think is “your area.” Remember that it is public land and that’s just part of the deal. I’ve been there and done that and yes, it is frustrating, but make the best of it.

There is certainly a lot more that I could talk about in regards to increasing the odds of being successful bowhunting this fall and winter. Trail cameras, stand placement and cover scent are just a few more things to consider. Do your homework and prepare yourself to the best of your ability. Read as much as you can and don’t be afraid to ask questions. I have learned, however, that the best lessons come from just taking that first step and getting out and into the woods. Enjoy each and every moment that you’re there and I promise that you will be amazed at what you will learn and see.

One other thing to remember…don’t base your success as a hunter on the size of the deer, the harvest or lack thereof. Enjoy the hunt and the people you share it with. The harvest is just the icing on the cake.

Good Luck this season, be safe and have fun!

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Puddle Jump Ducks Without a Dog

Puddle Jumping ducks and waterfowl is a fun way to hunt without a dog and get exercise

Duck hunting is one of the most fun activities of the fall, but for those who don’t have dogs or are bored in the mid-day hours, there is a way to hunt and get some exercise. Ducks tend to lay low during the day and hole up in creeks, river bottoms and other marshy areas. You can take advantage of these by being stealthy and active and jumping them off these “puddles”. Follow these tips to get ducks during the day with or without a dog by puddle jumping ducks.

Be Quiet

Staying quiet will help you get closer to the ducks and get easier shots. If they hear you sloshing through the marsh, they’re going to be gone before you get to them.

Binoculars are your friend

Binos are one of the best hunting tools ever invented for anything, including ducks. Scan from roads and fields where you know there are swampy areas that ducks like to be in and you can scout while you hunt. This helps narrow down hunting spots more quickly.

Wear Knee Boots or Waders

Waders can make a hot walk, but having these or knee boots will ensure that you get your ducks if you don’t have a dog. You don’t want to lose that meat, so make sure that you’re prepared to grab what you shoot.

Improved Cylinder Chokes

Using the improved cylinder choke will allow you to get close shots at jumping ducks without destroying all of the meat. I like to use #4 Steel shot for puddle jumping ducks without a dog.

Try puddle jumping mid-day ducks this fall and see what you bring home. You may be surprised at all of the waterfowl you can get at while taking that walk during the day.

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How to Grill the Perfect Venison Steak

These 5 tips on how to cook the perfect venison steak will help you become the best chef at this summer’s barbecues.

Now that Memorial day has come and gone we can (un)officially say that summer is here. Summertime means big fish, good beer and plenty of cookouts. It’s a great excuse to eat up some of the meat that you spent all of last fall chasing and cutting up. One of my favorite summertime choices to grill is venison steak, which can be pretty tricky to grill due to the thin cut of some of the pieces. Follow these 5 tips on how to grill the perfect venison steak and your friends will be coming back for more over and over again at your next party.

Whether you cut up your own deer and elk or have a butcher do it, many times you’ll find that the steaks are cut an inch or less thick. This requires some TLC on the grill so as not to burn them to charcoal. Here are a few tips on how to make them medium to medium rare.

Venison can also be eaten rare or medium rare and tastes best that way just like beef does.

1. Cook it While it’s Cold

A lot of people and chefs will tell you that you should cook a beef steak at room temperature, but that’s not the case with a thin venison steak. Thick steaks take longer to cook and the thinner venison meat that does not have as much fat on it will go from rare to extremely tough, very fast. Keep the venison steaks cool so that the outside has time to char before it cooks the inside of the steak to nothing.

2. Better with Butter

There are plenty of steak houses and backyard chefs that know that adding butter can make a steak better, and venison is no exception. Feel free to brush a thin coat of butter on the steak before grilling it. This will make a nice crusty sear on the exterior of the meat.

3. Keep the Grill Hot

While some people cook with a two level heat set up on their grill, with venison steaks, keep it hot. The high, intense heat will be sure to sear the outside, and since the interior of the meat cooks rather quickly anyway, you’ll get that good crust on the meat.

4. Keep the Lid Off

When you’re cooking a thicker steak, leaving the lid off will help cook the interior of the meat. This is what you do not want to have happen when you are cooking thin cuts of meat. Leaving the lid off will ensure that the outside gets cooked while the interior stays medium rare and doesn’t over cook. Make sure that you watch the meat too so that it doesn’t get overdone.

5. Flip the Meat Once

Only flip the meat once throughout the cooking process. These thin steaks do not take very long to cook and you don’t need to flip multiple times to get them done. Let the steak sit over the burners or coals as long as possible and then flip it. This could take as little as two minutes. The internal temperature of the meat only needs to be 130 degrees when you pull it off. This entire cooking session can take less than five minutes.

Good luck becoming the master of your summer barbecues this year. What are your favorite recipes for venison?

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Tree Thrasher

Are you looking for a unique and alternative approach for calling in deer? Tree Thrasher gives you a 3 in one call to simulate and manipulate deer activity!

Manipulate deer activity without making deer swing out of their relaxed state… Every deer call has one thing in common for attracting deer. But, the function of these calls is to either anger or warn deer that you are in the area. We have all used these calls, and in turn when they do work you have a buck or a doe that is on high alert when in range. This causes a heightened possibility of the whitetail ducking the arrow or picking you out in the stand. The Tree Thrasher has reversed that concept and taken calling in whitetails to the next level. Weighing in at less than 5 oz., this 3 in 1 system allows you to attract mature bucks and does without creating an environment where they are on edge. Sound natural and relaxed with the Tree Thrasher. Lets break these calls down. 

Leaves Crunching

During the fall, what is the best way to pinpoint deer? We listen for those dried up leaves crunching underneath the hooves of that mature whitetail. The middle section of this call simulates just that. We are not the only animals that listen for this. Whitetail are social animals and are always listening for nearby crashing/walking. To achieve this call, all it takes is a pull, twist, an smash to achieve this sound.

Twigs Breaking

Twigs and other foliage breaking are another key aspect in deer activity. What do all bucks do? They make scrapes and they rub trees to show dominance and let other deer know that they are in the area. The clip on the side of this call snaps to not only manipulate a twig break but to help simulate a buck making a scrape. When you put both the leaves crunching and twig breaking sounds together you will achieve just that! A quick and easy way to attract deer into your shooting lane.

Antlers in a Tree

The realism of creating this scrape sequence would not be complete without adding one more call into the mix. The call incorporates leaves crunching and twigs breaking, but it is lacking one thing. Antlers. The three prongs protruding from the call serves as tines to complete every aspect of the call and its possible calling sequence. Just scrape up the bark on the tree you are sitting in and you will see results! Spark curiosity and imitate the wild with just one call!

Owner and designer Todd Pringnitz talks about how he uses the call:

“The typical response from deer is 10 minutes after calling. A couple branch breaks to get their attention, a bit of leaf noise, then stop. Follow up with a grunt 30 seconds later, and let it go. It’ll make your spot their next destination but they usually don’t come barging in which is good.”

See below for The Tree Thrasher video!

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Duck Hunting – Shells To Use!

A great article from Wide Open Spaces! See below!

Shotgun Shells Worth Shooting This Duck Season

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SPY Optic General Realtree Camo Review

The SPY Optic General sunglasses are Dale Earnhardt Jr.’s signature glasses as you can see by the #88 on the right side of the sunglasses

Inspired by the one and only Dale Earnhardt Jr., the SPY Optic General sunglass is built for performance. These glasses look tough, feel tough and are as solid as any pair that I’ve ever worn. The Spy Optic Realtree camo sunglasses look cool and come blanketed in Realtree camouflage with the SPY Happy Lens. The pair shown in the photos here have the grey lens, but these sunglasses come with the grey, green or polar. Read more of the SPY Optic General Sunglass review. 

Spy Camo Sunglasses Review

The Realtree camo edition of the General sunglasses from SPY Optics are very cool looking and block out 100% of UV light. Usually, we’d guess you’d be using these on a sunny, warm day, but you can’t pick the weather!

The General sunglasses are Dale Earnhardt Jr.’s signature sunglass made by SPY Optics. The glasses are wide are large and will cover your eyes and block out 100% of UV rays. Featured on the inside of the glasses is the number 88 and Dale Earnhardt Jr.’s signature. The frames for this particular sunglass are matte black with Realtree camo on the inside of the frames and the tops.

Dale Earnhardt Jr. Sunglasses

When I first tried on the SPY General Sunglasses, I noticed that they were really comfortable. There is rubber that goes against your temples and nose and it doesn’t itch or move a lot when you are. The lenses are really good too. Very clear and block out a lot of light without distorting the outdoors.

Dale JR. Camo Sunglasses

SPY Optic’s Happy lens comes in these glasses and I’ll tell you that this lens is incredible. We wrote more about it in our review of the SPY Angler sunglasses review, but the lens really makes you feel better and see clearer. It would be very tough to find a better lens that looks great and actually helps you see and feel better.

SPY General Realtree Camo

The General Sunglasses come with a Realtree camo bag complete with blaze orange logos.

Obviously, the best part about these glasses is that they look cool. There’s nothing better than the matte black against Realtree camo. These would be the perfect glasses for fishing, hunting and enjoying the outdoors. Duck hunting would be perfect in these and no birds are going to spot a shiny glare from the sky.

SPY Realtree Camo Sunglasses

You can get your SPY General sunglasses here on their site, or order the SPY General Realtree camo shades on Amazon here. 

See more of the latest hunting and fishing gear reviews here on MorningMoss and read our great Outdoor News.  

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New Dog or Puppy … Where Do I Start? 

By Jeremy Moore  

The answer is easy – in the beginning. Not only is it the best place, it is the only place to start when talking about training a dog. It makes logical sense, yet the question “where do I start” is often one of the most common I receive. 

Before we get into where the beginning is for training a dog, what it looks like and where it leads us, let’s talk about why. You may have noticed I used both the word “dog” and “puppy” in the title of this article. More often than not, there is a reason for just about everything, and this is no exception. I think there is a lot of confusion when it comes to what the difference is between a puppy and a dog. That confusion is then compounded when new owners start to map out where to begin with their training. If someone brings home a 7-week-old puppy, it’s usually easy to understand – you have a puppy. 

But what about someone who just adopted the 7-month-old coonhound mix that already weighs 55 pounds? Or maybe you just brought in a year-old black lab that’s tipping the scales at 110 pounds and looks like he still might have some room to grow into those oversized paws? Although each of these examples vary greatly in both age and size, they all may have one thing in common – very little or no understanding of basic obedience. 

So, how do you know where do you start with each of those scenarios?   

Mental, not physical, development 

To clear things up right out of the gate, I called all three examples noted in that last paragraph puppies, even though two out of the three certainly look more like a dog than a puppy. I think there is a big misunderstanding when it comes to what makes a puppy a puppy, or a dog a dog. And I don’t think it’s always completely black and white. 

I often see folks out there who think they have “dogs” because they look like grown dogs physically, but mentally – which we can’t see and oftentimes don’t truly understand – they are still very much so puppies. However, because they look like a dog we often think we need to take a different approach to training them, or as I prefer to call it, raising them. I think it’s important to understand that just because they look like a dog and appear physically mature, we need to be aware that mentally they are likely still immature. 

It takes a lot longer for pups to “grow up” mentally than physically and at times, they will give us reminders of that. Those moments when their coordination and agility, or more accurately their lack of, shines through. There are those times when their feet just don’t line up with what they are trying to do in their mind, and they can appear downright clumsy! 

We see this more often than not with kids, particularly in sports. Just because a 15-year-old kid is 6’ 7” tall and weighs 220 pounds doesn’t mean he plays basketball with the same level of understanding and decision making as would a similar sized 28-year-old, 10-year NBA veteran. Just because that 15-year-old kid looks like a man, it’s not realistic to expect him to make all the other life decisions with matching maturity. 

It takes time for both dogs and people to truly “grow up.” Our patience and understanding is usually there when it comes to humans, but greatly overlooked with canines. You will hear me refer to any dog under the age of 2 typically as a puppy. As a general rule, that’s around the point where I start to see dogs really make the turn when it comes to growing up. 

The foundation 

Foundation is where everything starts. If you have aspirations to build anything that will perform well and last, you need to be sure you put in a solid foundation. 

When it comes to dogs, the nice part is the foundation you need is relatively simple. Does simple mean easy? Not necessarily. When I say simple, I mean it’s not complex. Regardless of your aspirations both in the field as well as in the home, you will need to start at the same point. Heel, Sit, Stay and Here or Recall. 

In order to do any kind of complicated drills or lessons in an attempt to develop a fine sporting dog in the field, you need a few capabilities to be there without fail. That’s where these foundation skills come into play. 

For example, there will come a point in training that I want to extend my dog’s ability to make retrieves at a distance of 100, 200, maybe even 300 yards or more. I certainly cannot throw a bumper out that far, so how can I get the dog proficient at extending its lines? One of the most effective ways I know is by setting up a trailing memory. I simply heel the dog out to a predetermined area or point of fall. Pitch the bumper, turn around and heel the dog back incrementally making maybe 50-yard jumps in the length or distance over three or four repetitions. 

Quickly and easily I can go from a 50-yard retrieve to 200 yards and with a lot of success. But, in order to do this drill I first need the dog that can heel without any issues. If I can’t get a dog to heel well throughout the trailing memory setup, I will be fighting just to set up the drill, and the chances of success in the end are slim to none. 

In order to build on any and all of your training, you will need to scale drills and lessons by incrementally adding complexity. If your foundation isn’t sound, you simply won’t be able to add to the drills. It’s like asking a kid to write a book. Before you can expect them to do so, you first have to teach them how to write a complete sentence, and before that they will need to be able to spell and use words correctly. Even before that, they need to learn the alphabet and what actual letters are. That makes a lot of sense to most of us. The same idea needs to make just as much sense when it comes to raising and training dogs. 

Over the years I have come across plenty of issues, problems or struggles with the dogs I’ve worked with, and I can say the great majority can be traced back to, and remedied by, simply strengthening the foundation. 

The good news is that the answer is simple. It all starts in the beginning with your dog’s foundation. In the next issue of Badger Sportsman I plan to break down the foundation – Heel, Sit, Stay and Recall or Here – even more in depth.   

Until then, best of luck to you in your training. 

Jeremy Moore has trained dogs for more than 15 years. His approach to training is to maximize a dog’s potential without using force and to bring out their natural abilities. He created the DogBone training products line, which is designed to allow dog owners to successfully train their own dog by combining the right tools with the information to put those tools to use. Visit www.dogbonehunter.com or FB, IG, Twitter and YouTube @dogbonehunter for more information. 

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Duck Breast Recipe

Badger Sportsman Magazine gives you Hank Shaws grilled duck breast recipe! This is one recipe that you will have over and over again.

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Top 10 Best Meals For Deer Camp

The 10 Best Meals for Hunting Camp

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Top 10 Items For Deer Camp

Don’t miss out on the top 10 essential items for deer camp this year!

     1. Gun / Ammunition

One of the most important items to have for gun deer season is your gun. There are various calibers of rifles out there, such as the .30-06, .270, .300, .308, and 7mm. These gun calibers are perfect for big game and especially whitetail hunting. There are also various brands of ammunition companies that tailor to your caliber of gun. Be sure to pick the right ammunition for the specific caliber of gun you are using.

     2. Orange Clothing

Be seen by other hunters! This is the busiest time to be in the deer woods. In Wisconsin alone, there are 600,000 hunters for opening weekend. This means being seen in the woods especially when hunting public land is very essential. By law (varies in each state) it requires the hunter to have 50% or more blaze Orange or Blaze Pink on you while you hunt. Picking warm, comfortable, and quiet clothing will be essential to staying in the woods all day long and having an enjoyable and safe hunting experience.

     3. Proper Footwear

With anything, proper footwear is essential. In the deer woods you are navigating through various terrain. You should pick out a pair of boots that are warm (600 or more grams), comfortable, scent free (not required but helps), and most defiantly waterproof. Dive into brands such as Irish Setter, Muddy, Rocky, and Lacrosse. All great brands that will last you a lifetime.

     4. Deer Calls

Gun deer season usually falls during the peak of the whitetail rut. This means calling deer can be a huge tool for you in being successful in the deer woods. The most common deer calls are the grunt tube and rattling antlers. Both are super beneficial during the rut. These calls can run between 10 and 20 dollars. 

     5. Knife

A knife is not only a great tool to have in the woods, but is super essential in taking care of your game after you harvest it. Pick a knife that fits in your hands well, packs away nicely, and is very sharp. A good knife can last you a lifetime!

     6. Deer Drag

If you do not have access to or cannot get to your harvest with an ATV or your Truck, a deer drag will save you time and energy when dragging out your game. there are a variety of deer drags, some that have wheels and some that are harness style connected to a rope. Depending on how much you want to spend, the price on the product usually affects the amount of energy and time it will take t0 get your game out of  the woods.

     7. Headlamp

This one is short and sweet. Headlamps are crucial to any and every hunter. Be sure to pick up one, because it surely does help when you are walking or leaving your stand, or when you are tracking or dragging out your game.

     8. Tree Stand or Ground Blind

Now, purchasing a tree stand and or a ground blind is not a must, it may help you be successful when out in the field. Both tree stands and ground blinds have their pros and cons, but work well in the field for you. Blinds and tree stands may range between 50 to 500 dollars.

     9.  Hunting License

One of the last things on our list; but should be one of your first purchases would be your hunting license. For what ever state you are hunting, be sure that you have the proper permits and tags to accommodate your particular hunt.

     10. The Deer Bong

After the hard work is said and done. It’s time to celebrate with good hunting partners and friends! What better way to start your party off than with the Deer Bong! This is a perfect piece to your deer camp puzzle! For more information on this awesome product click HERE. You just might be the talk of the camp!

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