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How To Tie A Uni-Knot

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How To Tie A Uni-Knot!

Badger Sportsman shows you how to tie a uni-knot so you can loose less fish and put more in the boat!

The post How To Tie A Uni-Knot appeared first on Morning Moss.


The Best Jig Knot Around!

Fall Walleyes

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Fall Bago Eyes

By: Kyle Sorensen

What a summer it has been! We have sure had some fun times here on the Winnebago System. The fish have been hungry this year, and the younger year classes have certainly been showing up in addition to the normal targeted sizes we find on the system. I have seen some big fish in the net, but I have also seen hundreds of the 10”- 13” Walters dangling on the end of my line. There are certainly some fantastic years of fishing ahead of us!

The dog days of summer have come, and they are now slowly slipping away into the cooler nights. The algae which had painted the surface of the water is now receding as we approach the last leg of the open water season. During this time, I’m sure some of you are making preparations in the woods as the buck bug grows and starts to nibble. While some have already switched out the open water gear for camo and their bow, keep those rods in the boat and at the ready as the fall walleye bite is here!

If we look at how the Winnebago System produces year round, we know fish can be caught in 30 FOW, all the way down to a couple feet, at any given time. Have you ever sight fished for walleyes under the ice in a few feet of water? It’s a blast, but it’s also a key area to take note. I am not going to tell you that to be successful you need to fish a reef during this time, and I’m not going to say you need to fish the deep mud flats. I’m going to tell you that you need to keep all of your options available and be prepared to sometimes switch things up when the current tactic or location isn’t producing.

If you saw the live broadcast I did on the OB Outdoors Facebook page while on the Fox River in Oshkosh, you saw a very nice two-man limit in the livewell. You also saw something that sums up fishing on the Winnebago System – a ton of rods with a lot of different rigs. Some days, fish are holding to weedbeds while sometimes the mud bite is phenomenal. This can go back and forth so we need to be ready. Let’s look at some important aspects of the range of bites on the Winnebago System during the fall time as each area can be useful at any given time. An important area to start on is the weed bite.

Whether you target submerged weeds or emergent weeds, it’s no secret; walleyes relate to both types here on our system. Some of the factors involved with a successful weed bite depend on forage, wind, temperature and oxygen levels. As we transition into the fall bite and the temperatures begin to drop, weedbeds that can normally hold fish begin to die off. As they die, they begin emitting less and less oxygen into the water. With less oxygen, the small bugs that the forage base consumes begin to die off and/or they move in search of a more desirable environment. With the bugs and forage moving, so do the ‘eyes. Knowing this, the only thing left to assume is that we need to target live, active weedbeds. This, however, can sometimes be a trick in itself as the season gets later and later.

When we fish weeds, jigging crawlers and leeches on the lightest possible jig head can certainly produce some great results while running the edges with the bow-mount. Plastics have their time and place in the weedbeds and due to their composition, they can allow us to rig the worm, leech, grub, whatever, in a way in which it produces less hookups with weeds. Depending on fish activity, sometimes anchoring and running slips on the outside edges can work. On a totally different side note, I have sometimes switched gears completely from ‘eyes to pannies while running slips on the edges. This becomes an absolute treat after a few hearty gills start dropping corks…

The next area of focus is the river systems. There are walleye on the system that never leave the river of their choosing during their entire life. As with springtime tactics, jigging minnows, crawlers, even leeches, all hold value in this topic. As I mentioned in a river jigging video I did this spring, looking for contours in the river channels is an integral part while targeting these fish. When I am jigging, you will always see me using the lightest jig possible to present my bait. By utilizing my bow-mount, I am able to slow down my drift speed and work each area longer before the full drift of the specific area has been completed.

The rivers are a unique environment by themselves. Some species spawn in the rivers, which in turn offers a hatch ripe for the chomping. With this happening, it not only brings in the jigging aspect but also the fly pulling tactics of springtime fishing. When we pull or pump flies, we are mimicking baitfish. With some hatches happening at any time into the fall bite, pulling flies yet again can create some amazing results. Our electronics can show these baitfish balls or clouds, and in a river system, you would be hard pressed to not see strong marks under and around these sometimes massive collections of forage. When you see one, it’s time to mark it and fish it good!

During the start of the fall bite, a lot of the spring forage has grown but some species have continued to spawn throughout the summer months as previously discussed. While crankbaits work throughout the year on our system, and crawler harnesses are a killer tactic on the system during the summer months, more and more anglers trade in the harnesses for cranks during this time. This coincides with a primary source of food for our walleye: the gizzard shad.

Gizzard shad have a very high fat content, and they are a slower moving object of prey. It’s a perfect combination for these ‘eyes as they begin to stock up. As with other species of fish in the system, the shad have a variety of year classes (many sizes) which allows for the various year classes of walleye to pick and choose what they want to fill their guts with. Because of the forage, the crankbait trolling bite sees an absolute spike during this time, and as always, we match the hatch. By doing this, we can select shad patterned cranks and run them slow to mimic the movements of the shad. Because Berkley’s Flicker Shad somewhat matches this movement, these are always a good starting point!

In my last article, we talked about trolling cranks out in the mud on Winnebago. This is still a tactic that will produce into the late fall so be sure to keep it in your arsenal.  If you want to check out that article, it’s available for free on Badger Sportsman’s online archive at www.BadgerSportsman.com for all of you subscribers!

The mud is not the only place on the Winnebago System that shows results while trolling cranks. The shorelines (especially around active weedbeds), mid-lake structures (reefs, humps, breaks) and rocky points all show great promise. With the cooling temperatures, fish remain in all areas of the water column as turnover takes place. Turnover is when the different temperatures collide in the water column and the water column becomes one… in so many words. As I previously stated, walleyes on our system can be had year round in the shallows to the deep trenches of our rivers. Because of this, I certainly do not see a huge impact that turnover presents to our walleye fishery here on the Winnebago System as there are always active fish here somewhere.

The last area I will cover is live bait rigging off of bottom bouncers. I love using bottom bouncers because they stir up the bottom and I also know exactly where my rig is running. The one aspect I do not like is the efficiency: usually only using one rod to cover the water area. This is a tactic that usually emerges in the early summer and pushes into mid-fall in my boat.

Growing up I was doing this in northern Minnesota, and now, I am continuing to utilize this technique here on our system. A leech or crawler “harness” can be deadly when all else seems to fail. As the rig options are endless and constantly changing, I will say that more often than not you will see some type of float on my setup. While sharp breaks coming from the shoreline, various reefs, or even rocky points are some great areas to target for this tactic, do not limit it to just those. This is a very versatile technique because it allows the angler to slow down and work a specific area in great detail while trying to coax a timid eye into snatching up the rig. With that said, my favorite area to start in is water around reefs that hold deep water.

As we all know, wind plays a huge role on fish location and activity. When running one of these rigs, you will see me starting on the windblown side, making an elongated “S” as I creep deeper and deeper into the main portion of the lake before restarting or jumping to a new structure. As the bouncer ticks bottom, I usually keep the speed between .5 – .8mph, sometimes even a slower drag. This is all dependent on the blade of the rig (if I even use one), the hardware, etc. A little pulse of the rod can sometimes warrant a strike, while other times the “S” turns being made suffice within themselves.

I have heard of some letting line out when a fish hits or even just waiting to set the hook. In my opinion, this is not good in any way shape or form, unless you are fishing with a single hook rig (leech, slow death, etc.). We have so many smaller ‘eyes (and goats) in our system that if you are running a two or three hook harness, those guys are going to swallow at least one of them. Are you going to keep a 10” ‘eye (or the bigger ones that are hooked badly), or do you mind having to clip a hook off of your harness? I don’t like the thought of those scenarios so I set the hook with a nice sweeping style when I feel the fish hit… No ifs ands or buts!

We briefly covered A LOT of different areas and topics here. Why? Because, like I have said over and over, the Lake Winnebago System is so versatile in the fact that any of these tactics (and more) could be the golden goose at any given time. When you fish the fall walleye bite on our system, be sure to come prepared for anything and keep trying different locations and tactics until you find the one that’s working for that specific day… or even hour! Before we know it, ice will be here and so will some fun videos that I can’t hardly wait to release! I hope you are able to finish the season off with a bang, and as always, until next time, “Tight Lines. Stay Dry.”

The post Fall Walleyes appeared first on Morning Moss.

Monster Buck-Burnett County Wisconsin

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Huge Burnett County Buck Harvest!

204 gross non typical 197 net non typical

Monster Buck shot in Burnett County Wisconsin!

Opening weekend of archery season in Wisconsin has started, and with that, many eager hunters hit the woods in anticipation on getting into the stand in hopes of having a shot at a monster buck! Well for this lucky hunter in Burnett County he sure had the hunt of a life time!

September 17th- Second day of season

With the first day of season in the books for Greg Widiker, he set out to his stand for another sit in hopes of seeing a buck he has been watching since 2014. According to Leader News Room, Widiker says, “I was definitely very aware of him and the last two years the focus was definitely on him. He was the only deer I was going to shoot.”

The morning of the 17th was more so an unsuccessful one. Widiker set his eyes that afternoon on a primary scouting mission around his property. Leader News Room says with Widiker that bucks on his 80 acre piece of property usually doesn’t hold big bucks until later in the year. The bucks usually feed primarily on the neighboring bean fields that surround the parcel of land. Thats unless there is a nice acorn fall on his property.

Widiker says, “One thing I do have is white-oak acorns” so he scouted for another place to sit for his evening hunt.

Later That Evening

With a quick search of the property a white-oak acorn ridge was found with ample amount of sign including a fresh scrape, and rubs all around.

“It was a white-oak ridge and it was just raining white-oak acorns. The sign was hot, with fresh droppings. There was a fresh scrape and buck rubbings already. So, for September, it was like, hello!”

With his stand hung the wait began with the anticipation of what could happen next. Over the course of the hunt Widiker saw 15 deer in total many of which were small fawns and does. A quick snort wheeze call from Widiker allowed him to see a massive bodied deer working his way to him. Thats when it happened.

The Shot

“I watched him in the binoculars for so long that I forgot I was hunting. I realized that my angle was right down when I was looking through my binoculars,” Widiker said. “I was just soaking it in and watching him. I could hear him sniffing the acorns and I could hear him crunching them, it’s amazing.”

The buck ended up only 15 yards away, sniffing the ground and eating those white-acorns. Widiker says, “I got buck fever and started shaking out of control,” he said. “I just closed my eyes and focused on my breathing and talked myself down, and it worked. And I regained my composure.”

He calmly drew back and settled his pin. He then let the arrow fly and THWAP! The smack of a Rage Hypodermic broadhead made contact. With excitement and an overwhelming amount of adrenaline, he made his way out to base camp where him and his buddy would begin the tracking process of the hunt. With a huge blood trail he found his buck only to have his friend say, “He’s right there!”

Widiker says, “It was overwhelming for me. It took me awhile to touch him. I just have tremendous respect for the animal. He’s just been what ruled my hunting for years. Part of me felt bad. Actually the first thing out of my mouth was that I apologize.”

With a huge range of emotion running through everyones veins Widiker finally bagged a buck of a lifetime. Through his patience, persistence, and knowledge Widiker walked away with a great story, meat in the freezer and a buck of a lifetime.

The buck ended up 204 gross non typical and 197 net non typical
Also 193 gross typical and 174 net typical

-For more to this story check out http://www.leadernewsroom.com/2017/09/21/burnett-county-hunter-arrows-buck-of-a-lifetime

The post Monster Buck-Burnett County Wisconsin appeared first on Morning Moss.

Land Of The Giants   

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Land Of The Giants

By: Marc Drewek

Awarded! That special word you want to read when you apply for an Iowa non-resident deer tag. The journey begins in May when you begin the application process and ends in July when you go onto the Iowa DNR Website. It’s hard to describe the feeling when you make the final click on the draw results tab. When the tag arrived in the mail in late July it was like holding a bar of gold. The next five months flew by like a flock of migrating geese. What also helped were numerous family events to look forward to and of course the busy season at TRS.

Having hunted in Iowa since 2000 it is like going home to hunt. The largest bucks I have had the opportunity to harvest have all come from Iowa. All of us who love to hunt whitetails and watch outdoor television know Iowa is the place. Knowing that at any time a buck of a lifetime can show himself is a feeling that’s hard to describe.

The numbers of deer is another great element in an Iowa deer hunt. Over the years, I have had stands that I have seen over 40 deer in one sit. Although the area I hunt has suffered through EHD, (a hemorrhagic disease of white-tailed deer which is an infectious, and sometimes fatal virus that is characterized by extensive hemorrhages) the deer herd seems to be growing and staying healthy. The terrain I hunt is similar to western Wisconsin, deep ditches leading from the bedding areas into the agricultural fields. The trick here is finding the key bedding areas, setting the stand, and waiting for the right wind. (The one thing I have discovered hunting in Iowa is that the deer do not look up in the trees like the deer in Wisconsin.)

After a good night’s rest, day one was filled with excitement and anticipation, just like every other one. With all the rain they had, the fields were wet and extremely muddy so all the stands I wanted to hunt would have a long walk. I sat in a stand that was one of my favorites with five big ditches leading up to a saddle and then down one big main ditch, a perfect funnel. I would see four bucks and a few does that morning. With a missed opportunity with the muzzleloader, it was time to move to the back of the farm; another long walk but well worth it. This was an area that produced my first Iowa harvest, a 160-inch, 10-pointer. So needless to say, I was excited.

On this day, the wind was perfect for this stand; directly out of the southwest. At 4:00 the first deer came out and it was a shooter.  Unfortunately, I couldn’t get a shot. By the end of the day, I had seen several nice younger bucks and plenty of does.  The only negative was that the deer were coming out where I couldn’t get a shot. We needed to move the stand 20 yards south. If we could do this, I knew I would get an opportunity, granted the wind stayed the same.

Day two was uneventful at best. The wind changed and we couldn’t hunt where we wanted. We were watching the weather hoping the wind would switch and some colder weather would move in.

Day three we decided to move the stand. So I would sit in a blind on another property while the stand was moved. At 1:00 pm I was back on the stand where all the activity was. By 3:00 the deer were moving but they were coming out downwind. I would still see several nice bucks and a few does. Our hope was for the clouds to move out and the colder weather to move in.

Day four rolled in with colder weather and sunshine, which we hadn’t seen much of this trip. I sat in the timber for the morning hoping to catch the deer heading to the bedding area. By noon I hadn’t seen a deer, so I decided to take a slow walk back to the evening stand. Just as I had expected, the deer started moving earlier, the first ones at 2:30 and they just kept pouring out. The new stand position was perfect. The farthest shot would be 80 and the closest at 30. By 4:00 I had seen over 25 deer, including another nice 10-point. Needless to say, I was getting pumped. Just to give you an idea I had 17 does and fawns pass by me at once at less than 30 yards. After those does had passed, I noticed two more deer headed my way.  Both were bucks.  There was a smaller one and a really nice wide 8-pointer. If they stayed on their path, they would be at 30 yards for a shot. Thirty yards it was… and the wide eight was on the ground 20 yards away. After a few minutes of calming myself down, I climbed down and put my hands on him.  I couldn’t have been more grateful to harvest this animal.

After four days of pounding wind and rain, the satisfaction was overwhelming. Being aggressive and moving the stand made all the difference. Sometimes you have to make things happen and take a chance. The hunt was one of the most enjoyable due in part to where I was hunting, but also because I didn’t put pressure on myself to “shoot the big one.” Instead, I absorbed every minute of being in the outdoors, seeing multiple big bucks and having the chance to experience the thrill of the harvest. It’s not so much about the grail as it is the quest in the land of the giants.

The post Land Of The Giants    appeared first on Morning Moss.

Packing for the wilderness – What to Take

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Packing for the wilderness – what to take

what to pack in the wilderness

When packing for a wilderness trip, you need to make sure you have all of your essentials

Depending on why you are heading off to the wilderness, you may be thinking about checking out the latest cameras, for photographing the wildlife, shopping for fishing lures or finding red dot sights , for hunting. There are certain items which need to be taken along, depending on what you are intending to do while you are there.

However, there are some items which are a good idea to pack, no matter why you are taking off into the wilderness. Let’s take a look at what you need to consider.

The right knife for the job

It’s always a good idea to take a knife with you when you head off into the wilderness. They come in useful for everything from cutting branches to gutting fish. A fixed blade knife is the best choice as it tends to be more reliable than a folding knife; there are less moving parts where there can be problems.

A hat for warmth

It can get really cold when you are out in the middle of nowhere, especially at night. Do not forget to pack your reliable beanie hat, to help keep you warm.

Water bottle with at least a 2-liter capacity

It goes without saying that it’s important to keep hydrated if you are out hiking. This is why you need to pack a good quality water bottle, where you can store at least two liters of liquid.

Somewhere to sleep

You do not necessarily have to take a tent with you, into the wilderness; although this does tend to be the most popular option. If you are heading somewhere which is protected by plenty of tree cover, you may want to consider taking along a hammock, or even just a tarpaulin, instead. You can also supplement any sleeping facility you take with a sleeping bag, for extra protection and warmth.

A form of light

Obviously, you do not want to be stuck out in the middle of nowhere, with no form of lighting. Depending on your individual requirements, you should take a head lamp or torch to use.

The basics for hygiene and health

You do not need to take the entire contents of your bathroom with you; this is supposed to be about getting back to nature after all. But, you should take the basics, such as a travel size toothbrush and toothpaste, bandage and band aid, and some painkillers.

Clothing and shoes – the essentials

If you are heading into the wilderness, a good pair of hiking boots is essential. It’s also a good idea to take some light shoes, for when you are around the camp in the evening. Make sure that you take clothing that is easily worn in layers, and that is fast drying.

Packing the items you take into a pack that has a frame and a strap that fastens around your waist is the best idea. This makes it easier for you to carry the load when you are hiking out to your destination. Stick to packing just the necessities as you do not want the pack to be any heavier than it needs to be.

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Tailgate Duck Sliders

Top 6 Car Features for Wisconsin Winter Outdoor Adventurers

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Top 6 Car Features for Wisconsin Winter Outdoor Adventurers

winter driving wisconsin

Challenging Wisconsin weather drives what you may need for successful winter expeditions.

Challenging Wisconsin weather drives what you may need for successful winter expeditions. 

You’ve packed extra hand-warmers. You have a new vacuum insulated mug. Your favorite boots are ready. So, you think you’re prepared for an adventure into Wisconsin’s winter wonderland … except for one thing: getting there and back. Before you travel to the great outdoors this winter, consider how a few vehicle features can add to your enjoyment and even impact your hunting and fishing success.

Sometimes the smallest features can make a biggest difference. Yet, it seems like every month a new vehicle advancement in convenience or safety becomes available. Some are quite pricey, too. So, before you shop for a new or used car with just the right features to help you enjoy a great winter adventure, review our top 6 vehicle features you may want in your next used car, truck, or SUV.

  1. All- or 4-Wheel Drive

Assuming you know the routes you’ll be taking, and if these roads are paved or not, you can choose to buy a vehicle with either all-wheel drive or 4-wheel drive. All-wheel drive cars, trucks, and SUVs generally perform well in slippery weather conditions. And, you don’t need to activate them; they simply distribute power to wheels as necessary.

Four-wheel drive systems, most common in pickup trucks and SUVs, are excellent for driving in very deep snow and for off-roading. Once 4-wheel drive is activated, its low range allows the vehicle to drive up steep hills, over boulders, and through mud. If your route includes roads that aren’t plowed regularly, 4-wheel drive is a must.

A quick reminder: your drive system does not determine how well your vehicle will stop in slippery conditions. Traction is provided by your tires, and only a playing card-sized area is touching the road at any time. So, make sure you have winter tires in good condition. Their soft rubber compound grips better in cold weather. Look for the three-peak mountain and snowflake symbol molded into the tire’s sidewall.

  1. Heated Side Mirrors

Being able to operate your vehicle safely is crucial, especially when you’re exploring unfamiliar territory. The key to safe operation is no surprise; it’s being able to see: in front of you, behind you, and next to you.

You may think that heated side mirrors would cool off too quickly during travel to do much good. But, the housing unit protects against wind and cold. Overall, they’re as effective as rear window defrosters/defoggers, allowing you to remove ice build-up without having to scrape, which can shift your side mirror’s sightlines.

Plus, they evaporate fog in an instant, making your early morning adventures dry, clear, and safe. Speaking of heated components, consider heated seats. Not only do they raise your body temperature when you need it most, they feel great on a sore back during the drive home from a long outdoor expedition. Oh, and a heated steering wheel can feel incredible, too.

  1. Remote Vehicle Starting

Winter mornings can be brutally cold. Especially if your vehicle is exposed to the elements when parked. You can defrost your windows and warm up your vehicle from your home or the cabin, far before you venture out. Plus, after your outdoor fun, get things warmed up before you’ve left the woods.

Also, consider keyless entry, which comes in handy when you have a frozen armload of gear and food. Just walk up to the door and touch the sensor on the door instead of dropping your keys into the snow. Plus, many cars, trucks, and SUVs with keyless entry have pushbutton starting, so no more fishing for keys!

One more convenient loading feature: a hydraulic lift-gate (which slowly drops down in pickups and opens up in hatchbacks) and can be moved with only a finger.

  1. Dual-Zone Automatic Climate Control

The drive to your winter escape could be a long haul. And, you’re likely going to have someone with you: friend, spouse, kids. Traveling hundreds of miles while trying to agree on a comfortable interior temperature can be challenging.

Dual-zone automatic climate control is the ultimate peacemaker; giving the driver and front passenger the ability to fine-tune the temperature. Simply set it, and the system makes adjustments to keep everyone comfortable. While in “auto” mode, it keeps everything steady, so you’re decreasing adjustments and increasing safety.

  1. Winter Windshield Wipers

Having to pull over during your trip to repeatedly knock icy messes off your wiper blades is inconvenient and a safety hazard. As their name states, winter wiper blades are built specifically for winter driving, preventing ice from building up on the blade holder. Now, ice and wet snow get lifted off the blade so it rides flat against the windshield.

Some of these special wipers do have a tendency to lift up at high speeds, which may not be an issue when driving in winter conditions. You just need to replace them after winter with summer-friendly blades because they may streak in rainy conditions.

Since we’re discussing being able to see clearly, think about automatic high beams. This feature automatically turns off your high beams for oncoming traffic, and then brings them back up after the car passes. This makes nighttime driving on back roads easier, which can be stressful due to winter driving conditions.

  1. Ground Clearance

OK, ground clearance isn’t a feature that can be easily changed, but it’s something to consider when shopping for your winter-friendly vehicle. For most SUVs, the distance between the chassis and the driving surface is 8 inches, enough room to handle most snowfalls. With more ground clearance, you have added ability to dance over boulders, cross streams, and climb up steep pitches of dirt road.

However, with less ground clearance, let’s say 6.5 inches (still more than most cars and many minivans have), you need to carefully consider what you’ll be driving over. So, depending on your off-road needs, take the time to take some measurements.

Finding the right car, truck, or SUV for your winter outdoor adventures isn’t easy. In the end, it has to work for you, so do your research on vehicle makes, models, and features. We suggest discussing your winter trip needs with a reputable, ethical, and honest used car dealer.

Bring your needs—whether that’s off-road handling or special vehicle features—to a 199ride.com dealership: Green Bay Auto, Appleton Auto, Wausau Auto, Antigo Auto, and 199ride La Crosse.

 

 

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Trigger More “ice” Fish

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Well-balanced Presentations Trigger More ‘Ice’ Fish

Role of the rod and line in ice-fishing success, plus late-ice tips

By: Dave Genz

This winter, we’ve focused on what Dave Genz considers the keys to presenting a bait to fish under the ice. About the effectiveness of horizontal jigs, knot positioning and cadence of the presentation. To tie a bow around the topic, a bit about the crucial role the rod and line play in your ability to execute the Genz pounding presentation and experiment with cadence. 

Line

The line you use for ice fishing has to be fresh, and has to match up well with the weight of your bait. Everything else you do can be perfect, but if your line is too thick (“heavy”) for the bait, “It won’t hang straight,” says Genz. “Even if it’s just a little too heavy, it robs you of the feel you need to fish the bait and detect bites.”

Genz is meticulous about his line, changing it frequently, and often hand-stretching the first 20 feet or so at the start of the day, to remove any tendency for the line to coil when lowered down the hole. Fresh, limp line matched well with the bait provides you with a direct connection between the rod and the bait. “You can make that bait do what you want it to when your line is hanging straight and does not have memory,” he says. “If it’s too heavy and has coils in it, you can’t feel much and the bait doesn’t react to what you’re doing with the rod.” 

Rod

Genz has spoken many times about his rod preferences for ice fishing.

“They need to function,” he says, “like long rods in miniature.”

Genz prefers ice rods that are relatively stiff and “very crisp,” so that the bottom of each jigging cycle can be felt in his hand. “The right rod allows me to do anything from hard pounding to a softer, slower, smoother presentation.”

It’s well-known that Genz does not like spring bobbers, because of how they smooth out and slow down cadence in presentation.

“If a slower, smoother presentation is what the fish want,” he says, “you can easily do that with a good graphite rod. And there are ways of detecting light bites by watching as much as feeling. If you’re watching the rod tip all the time, and you can see when the line moves slightly to the left or right, or if the rod tip dips slightly, you set the hook.”

On light-biting fish, if you miss on the first few hook sets, Genz advises, try dropping the rod tip when you see a bite occur. Drop the rod tip, hesitate, then set the hook. The time, and slack line, often allows the fish (if it is so inclined) to take that “second bite” and get the hook into its mouth. “A lot of times,” says Genz, “the fish will just kind of softly suck at it the first time, and the bait is touching on the outside of the mouth. When you drop the rod tip, if they decide they want it, they will suck it in and you can catch them.”

On most days, a rapid cadence, giving off good vibration, will attract and trigger more fish than a softer, more muted cadence. After all these years of fishing almost every day all winter, Genz has concluded that the biggest mistake anglers make is slowing down or stopping their jigging motion when fish show up.

“You should keep the movement going,” he says. “I see most of the spring-bobber people stop when a fish swims up to it. They just hold it still and watch for the spring to move. But when you do that, if your line has any twist, the jig starts to spin. Most of the time, the fish don’t like a spinning jig.”

“When you’re using a rapid cadence, and keep it going after the fish comes in, the lure doesn’t spin. And if you keep doing what brought the fish in, and experiment with raising or lowering the jig as you keep it vibrating, it gets more of the fish to bite. And they tend to bite down on it harder, because they tend to chase it more, and work harder at getting it all the way into their mouth.”

After each fish or missed bite, when you reel up to put on bait or rotate the knot on the eyelet of the jig, take a few seconds to let the line ‘un-spin’ to further minimize the curse of the spinning jig.

As we head into prime ice panfish time, here’s one example of a well-balanced setup, featuring a new rod Genz designed in the Ice Team Professional series. Match the 26-inch bluegill rod with 2 or 4-pound test line, and the new Dave Genz Drop-Kick tungsten jig. Any size jig in the series will match up well with this system.

Late/Early Ice Fishing Tips

We won’t leave you hangin’ when it comes to late-ice panfish action. Here are key tips from Genz for catching fish during some of the nicest days of the year.

* First, be safe out there. Across the Midwestern Ice Belt, the landscape varies from ice-free on the southern fringes to thick and sturdy ice in northerly strongholds. Regularly check ice conditions, and wear a life jacket.

* This is the time of winter when shallow water comes alive, as oxygen returns and water temperatures warm. The days get longer and the sun eats away at snow cover, especially around shorelines. Sun penetrates the ice, and weeds can even begin to grow again. As a result, shallow spots that didn’t hold fish midwinter can be teeming with life.

* Larger lakes tend to be better than smaller lakes, because, all things being equal, fish come out of the midwinter doldrums in better condition and tend to be more active.

* Head for bays on the north side of these larger lakes. A bay on the north side receives southern exposure, which means it gets more life-pumping sunshine on an average day, as late winter prepares to give way to early spring.

“During the transition between midwinter and late ice,” says Genz, “look for fish to start moving toward the shallows. They might still be in deeper water, but they might be staging close to the shallows. That’s why this can be a tricky time, so you have to look, keep moving, and drill enough holes to find where they are.”

If you don’t find fish deep, look shallower. If you don’t find them shallow, look deeper, especially close to large south-facing bays, inflowing creeks and rivers, manmade inlets and canals. Be extremely careful around current, as you always should.

But get out there and take part in one of the best portions of the ice fishing season.

Note: Dave Genz, known as Mr. Ice Fishing, was the primary driver of the modern ice fishing revolution. He has been enshrined in the National Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame and Minnesota Fishing Hall of Fame for his contributions to the sport. For more fishing tips and to order his new info-packed book, Ice Revolution, go to www.davegenz.com.

The post Trigger More “ice” Fish appeared first on Morning Moss.

Hit and Run Perch

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Hit and Run Perch

By: Jason Mitchell 

Schools of perch often seem to continually be on the move. When there are several mouths to feed, sitting in one location doesn’t work. A school of perch can devour everything in its path. I would hate to be a minnow or crawfish when jumbo and all of his friends roll through. 

Because schools of perch are typically here today and gone tomorrow because of their nomadic lifestyle, finding and getting on top of fish can be always fleeting.

How do you land on a moving target? Sitting in a good location where fish are likely to roll through isn’t a bad strategy. If the fish are moving through and you have good traffic underneath you… why move? The other strategy is a run and gun mentality where you approach the ice much more aggressively and move when you are not on fish and move when you stop catching fish. If you are experiencing some success, cycle back through the holes until you wear out your welcome.

Finding and landing on fish is half the battle but the other factor that can enhance your success on the ice is how you capitalize on the opportunities. Perch fishing is often intense where a ten percent window can often produce ninety percent of your catch. You can go from zero to hero in a hurry. This all depends however on how quickly you can get back down into the water and how long you can keep these drifters down below.

The “turn around” is probably one of the most important factors that dictates how many fish you catch. How fast can you get the fish up into your hand and unhooked and how fast you can get back in the water. There are a few ways to increase the turn around.

Choosing lures that fall fast is one angle. Fast dropping lures include the classic Buckshot Rattle Spoon and the Northland Tackle Puppet Minnow. On a really torrid bite, using lures that can be unhooked more quickly (one hook versus treble hook) can speed up the turn around. You can also bend out the hook slightly and pinch off the barb so that the fish can pop off the hook easy. Lures like the Forage Minnow or the classic Russian Spoons. The final way to increase turnaround is to speed up the elevator ride. Stiffer rods allow you to reel in fish faster, heavier line also allows you to lift the fish out of the water and can make you more effeicient. So in a perfect world on top of a crazed school of perch, you want to throw a fast dropping lure with one hook on the heaviest line you can get away paired up on a heavier rod so that you can just windmill fish.

 

Of course we don’t live in a perfect world all the time so often, we can’t get away with maximizing the turn around on every front. Usually, we can only incorporate pieces of the basic formula above. What can often happen however is that while the overall conditions or tone of the day might require more finesse like using three pound test and a Meat Stick, when the fish finally do get wound up, you can do a lot of damage having that extra rod nearby that is rigged up for total destruction. So often, we might get the school started on the more subtle and finesse and do the real damage once we get into a rhythm where we get the school to rise up higher and start competing.

Besides being conscience of and manipulating the “turn around,” the other variable is how you can manipulate the school. Keeping fish around and staying on fish is much easier to do with a few other anglers. When you get a good school below you, get your friends in as tight to you as possible. Often, in shallow water especially…. I am not a big fan of drilling holes right next to somebody catching fish. If there are no holes close to you and you have fish stacked below, tag team the fish. When you reel up a fish, have your buddy drop down. That way there is a line in the water as you are unhooking the fish. When the bite gets intense, you can literally double the damage.

Besides keeping a line in the water, some other ways to increase your success is to pick fish off the top of the school, lift the fish higher in the water column by either fishing above the fish or using a fish on your line to pull fish up higher.

All of these variables can enable you to maximize your opportunities. In the end, you have to take what the fish will give you but the more things you can get going in your favor, the more perch you can catch. Only on the best days do all of the factors above work. Usually, you can increase your success exponentially with each facet you can incorporate.

The post Hit and Run Perch appeared first on Morning Moss.

Ice Fishing Safety!

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Safety On The Hard Water

By: Adam Walton

As ice takes hold on waters to the north, anglers are venturing onto the hard water.  Although many anglers look forward to this season, some forget about the inherent danger associated with it.  Unfortunately, every year numerous anglers fall through the ice and all too often, some tragically parish.  Before heading out, knowing a few simple precautions and understanding basic survival skills may make the difference between life and death.

Let’s first discuss the effects of cold water shock to the human body.  When a person first falls through the ice, the body’s initial reaction to abrupt cold water immersion is to gasp.  The cold water shock will literally suck the breath out of your lungs, causing many people to panic and inhale water.  This factor alone causes many drowning deaths, compared to hypothermia which is discussed later.  Understanding that gasping and losing your breath is a short term normal response, keeping calm and treading water the first minute after falling in should be your only priority. (Figure 1) Attempting to escape the water while unable to control your breathing is difficult and dangerous.  After a short time, your body will becomeaccustomed to the cold water and your breathing will return to normal.  Once your breathing is controlled, focus on quickly getting out.  First, get your bearings and try to locate the tracks you left prior to falling through.  This points you in the general direction of safe ice, since it was able to hold your weight before falling through.

After you have quickly located the direction of escape, prop your body onto the ice and kick hard while pulling yourself up.  If ice breaks off, push away broken pieces and continue going until solid ice is found.  Once your entire body is onto solid ice, roll safely away from the hole.  Rolling away disperses your weight and helps to not fall through again.  If you carry ice picks, use them to pull yourself onto safe ice.  Ice picks are inexpensive and make a huge difference when attempting to pull your body onto safe ice. (Figure 2) Although it may seem insane, once out of the water, remove as much heavy wet clothing as possible and head towards help.  Since cold wet clothing pulls away body heat much faster than cold air, removing items will help you get warmer compared to keeping them on.

Along with drowning, hypothermia is a secondary, but just as important threat.  If you are unable to get out of the water, or if you do get out but are far away from help, hypothermia will quickly set in and may cause death.  The first stage of hypothermia is body shivers.  As time passes, numbness will begin to set in eventually making it difficult or impossible to control your body movements.  Continued cold exposure will lead to advanced stages of hypothermia, which include altered mental status and poor decision making.  If no help is found, unconsciousness will eventually occur, which can lead to death.  Both the water and air temperature will affect how quickly these stages occur, but generally speaking, the human body has roughly 10 minutes of purposeful movement before hypothermia begins to set in and 1 hour before unconsciousness occurs.  After this time frame passes, it becomes very difficult to rescue victims.

If you are able to rescue someone, be aware of the advanced stages of hypothermia. It is important to rewarm a victim, but do so slowly.  Rapid rewarming, like submersion into a hot bath, can cause a victim of advanced hypothermia to go into cardiac arrest.  Never hesitate to call your emergency response number if you see someone in distress, even if you are able to rescue the victim.  Advanced care is usually necessary evenafter the subject is pulled from the water.

One can see the importance of traveling with a fishing partner and letting others know your location prior to heading out.  If alone, self rescue can be very difficult and hypothermia effects can take hold before you reach help.  Some other things to think about are wearing equipment such as ice picks or a life jacket and carrying items such as a throw rope, extra gloves/stocking hats, flares, etc… which all can help in emergency situations.  Please be safe this season and plan accordingly.  Ice fishing is a blast, but understanding the dangers that go with it and how to handle them may save your life!

The post Ice Fishing Safety! appeared first on Morning Moss.

NAP Mantis

How to Score Great Deals on Rural Real Estate

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How to Score Great Deals on Rural Real Estate in the hunting world.

How to Score Great Deals on Rural Real Estate

How to Score Great Deals on Rural Real Estate

Real Estate isn’t cheap, but there are ways to score great deals if you know what to look for. Whether you’re looking for farmland, land to hunt and fish on, or to build a vacation getaway, having a strategy in place will help. There are also precautionary measures you’ll need to take in order to get a great bargain. The following advice will help you find the land you want, at a sweet price.

  • Figure out what you want through an internet search. An obvious search term is land for sale, but you can drill down your needs by being more specific. What state are you looking to buy in, and what’s your price range? Do you want property with a home, or not? Being clear about this will narrow your search, eliminating hundreds of worthless pages.
  • If you are not looking for a home, then you don’t necessarily need a realtor. There are places that sell rural property for bargain basement prices. Realize that some of these places might not have utility lines connected, another reason they are so affordable. Banks sell acreage to buyers directly, and so will local or federal governments. Often these institutions auction off lots to the highest bidder. Do the research, and often you’ll find the land you want at a better price than you imagined.
  • Find out if there are tax liens associated with the property you like. All property taxes are the responsibility of the buyer, so be sure you know what you are getting yourself into first. If there are, you can use this as a negotiating point to bring down the price. The local municipality will have tax records available for you to look over.
  • If you want to build on the property, you will want to know if it’s zoned commercial or residential. While this will not help you get a better price, it’s common sense knowledge often overlooked by excited buyers.
  • Purchasing property lots is the easiest and least expensive way to buy acreage. These lots are often very rural, far from residential areas. The thing to remember, is that the further away it is from people, the lower the price.
  • If the property is not hooked up to local utilities or electric power, the price will be less.
  • Road access is an important consideration. If a property doesn’t currently have access to local roads, it will be much less expensive. The thing to keep in mind though, is how much would it cost for you to build a road yourself?
  • If you are unwilling or able to spend the time doing the necessary research, your best bet is to contact a reputable land broker, and let them do the work for you. They have the most experience with rural land for sale, and they offer the best prices. Everything you need to know, such as zoning laws, utility access, and tax liens will be already researched and available for your inspection. They strictly deal with these types of property, and can readily tell you if the land is a foreclosure, or if it’s land they’ve purchased to resell. Often, land brokers deal with cash only transactions, which can also score considerable savings. These brokers sometimes have access to land available nowhere else.

There are two ways to find rural land for sale at the best price. First you can spend hours doing the research yourself. This includes zoning laws, foreclosures, and tax issues. Visit government auction sites, and find out which banks have foreclosed on property at a good price. It seems like a lengthy process, but if researched diligently, you’ll save a lot of money.

The second (and easier way) is to find a professional land broker with experience in these transactions. They will have all the information you need at their fingertips. Property is available at great prices; do your research, and score yourself a deal.

The post How to Score Great Deals on Rural Real Estate appeared first on Morning Moss.

Bowhunting.com’s Top ATA Show Products

Hit and Run Perch

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0

Hit and Run Perch

By: Jason Mitchell 

Schools of perch often seem to continually be on the move. When there are several mouths to feed, sitting in one location doesn’t work. A school of perch can devour everything in its path. I would hate to be a minnow or crawfish when jumbo and all of his friends roll through. Because schools of perch are typically here today and gone tomorrow because of their nomadic lifestyle, finding and getting on top of fish can be always fleeting. 

How do you land on a moving target? Sitting in a good location where fish are likely to roll through isn’t a bad strategy. If the fish are moving through and you have good traffic underneath you… why move? The other strategy is a run and gun mentality where you approach the ice much more aggressively and move when you are not on fish and move when you stop catching fish. If you are experiencing some success, cycle back through the holes until you wear out your welcome.

Finding and landing on fish is half the battle but the other factor that can enhance your success on the ice is how you capitalize on the opportunities. Perch fishing is often intense where a ten percent window can often produce ninety percent of your catch. You can go from zero to hero in a hurry. This all depends however on how quickly you can get back down into the water and how long you can keep these drifters down below.

The “turn around” is probably one of the most important factors that dictates how many fish you catch. How fast can you get the fish up into your hand and unhooked and how fast you can get back in the water. There are a few ways to increase the turn around.

Choosing lures that fall fast is one angle. Fast dropping lures include the classic Buckshot Rattle Spoon and the Northland Tackle Puppet Minnow. On a really torrid bite, using lures that can be unhooked more quickly (one hook versus treble hook) can speed up the turn around. You can also bend out the hook slightly and pinch off the barb so that the fish can pop off the hook easy. Lures like the Forage Minnow or the classic Russian Spoons. The final way to increase turnaround is to speed up the elevator ride. Stiffer rods allow you to reel in fish faster, heavier line also allows you to lift the fish out of the water and can make you more effeicient. So in a perfect world on top of a crazed school of perch, you want to throw a fast dropping lure with one hook on the heaviest line you can get away paired up on a heavier rod so that you can just windmill fish.

 

Of course we don’t live in a perfect world all the time so often, we can’t get away with maximizing the turn around on every front. Usually, we can only incorporate pieces of the basic formula above. What can often happen however is that while the overall conditions or tone of the day might require more finesse like using three pound test and a Meat Stick, when the fish finally do get wound up, you can do a lot of damage having that extra rod nearby that is rigged up for total destruction. So often, we might get the school started on the more subtle and finesse and do the real damage once we get into a rhythm where we get the school to rise up higher and start competing.

Besides being conscience of and manipulating the “turn around,” the other variable is how you can manipulate the school. Keeping fish around and staying on fish is much easier to do with a few other anglers. When you get a good school below you, get your friends in as tight to you as possible. Often, in shallow water especially…. I am not a big fan of drilling holes right next to somebody catching fish. If there are no holes close to you and you have fish stacked below, tag team the fish. When you reel up a fish, have your buddy drop down. That way there is a line in the water as you are unhooking the fish. When the bite gets intense, you can literally double the damage.

Besides keeping a line in the water, some other ways to increase your success is to pick fish off the top of the school, lift the fish higher in the water column by either fishing above the fish or using a fish on your line to pull fish up higher.

All of these variables can enable you to maximize your opportunities. In the end, you have to take what the fish will give you but the more things you can get going in your favor, the more perch you can catch. Only on the best days do all of the factors above work. Usually, you can increase your success exponentially with each facet you can incorporate.

The post Hit and Run Perch appeared first on Morning Moss.


ID Fish on Any Flasher!

WILD GAME RECIPE OF THE WEEK!

Walleye Fly Rig

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Walleye Fly Rig

Kyle Sorensen with OB Outdoors shows you how to tie a walleye fly rig! Catch more fish today!

The post Walleye Fly Rig appeared first on Morning Moss.

Wild Apple Trees 

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Wild Apple Trees 

By: Lawanda Jungwirth 

Do you remember the story of Johnny Appleseed from grade school?  It is more than just a story; Johnny Appleseed was a real person named John Chapman, born in 1774.  Legend has it that he spent years walking throughout Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, West Virginia and Ontario, Canada randomly dropping apple seeds along the way.  The truth is that he was a knowledgeable nurseryman and a noted conservationist.   

Johnny Appleseed didn’t go around tossing apple seeds everywhere, he went around planting deliberate orchards.  In the early 1800s, frontier law allowed people to claim land by developing a permanent homestead.  One way to make a claim was by planting 50 apple trees.  John Chapman did just that, planting apple seeds in orchards.  Once planted, he put fences around the orchard and left a neighbor to care for it.  He would return every couple years to check each orchard’s progress and when they were producing sufficiently, he sold the land.  By the time of his death at age 70, he had covered 100,000 square miles and owned more than 1,200 acres of land. 

The apples Johnny Appleseed planted were not the sweet eat-out-of-hand apples we look for today.  They were small and tart, called “spitters” because that’s probably what you’d do if you took a bite of one.  The apples he cultivated were mostly pressed to make hard cider and applejack.  Unfortunately, when Prohibition came along in the 1920s, FBI agents took the ax to the majority of Johnny Appleseed’s apple trees.  The last known apple tree to be planted by Johnny is 176 years old and still stands in Nova, Ohio.  However, there are trees that have been grafted from his trees still growing throughout the area of his travels. 

The apples we buy today in the grocery store and the apple tree saplings we obtain from nurseries are not grown from seed.  They are the result of careful grafting of existing apple trees, forming clones that are genetically identical.  Often, they’ve been grafted onto the roots of other types of apple trees to control how large they will grow. 

There are still “wild” apple trees to be found in Wisconsin, along country roads, beside farm fields, at forest edges, along abandoned railroad tracks and in cemeteries.  These apple trees may have grown on their own from seed and the size, flavor, ripening time and color are purely left to chance.  Sometimes these apples aren’t the best tasting, but sometimes they rival the sweetest apples in the produce aisle.  If you come across a wild apple tree, sample the fruit.  If it’s awful, wait a few weeks and try again.  Even though the apples appear ripe at first taste, they may not have been ready for harvest.  

Since wild apple trees haven’t been doused with poison to control for insect pests and diseases, the apples may be wormy or misshapen.  On the other hand, you may come upon a tree that is naturally resistant to insects and diseases and find a tree full of perfect, beautiful apples.  You can always cut the bad parts out of less than perfect apples and use the good parts.  You can’t beat free! 

Wild apples can be used in all the same ways as commercial apples are used.  Pies, cakes, apple slice, apple crisp, apple cake, apple Betty, applesauce, apple jelly, apple chutney, apple cider, apple wine . . . a truly versatile fruit.  Like commercial apples, they can be frozen, canned or dried for long term storage. 

The post Wild Apple Trees  appeared first on Morning Moss.

Are Your Ducks in a Row? 

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Are Your Ducks in a Row? 

By: Steve Jordan 

Planting food plots is done in many different ways.  Some very serious food plotters have two or four-row corn planters to plant corn or soybeans, and some also have six to eight foot grain drills for the smaller seeds.    

For years, I have been broadcasting seeds exclusively.  This method can be done by hand by throwing seeds (almost like feeding the chickens on old western movies).  You can also use a hand held crank or electric seed spreader or a pull behind wheel driven one.  For bigger projects, you can hook up a PTO driven spreader to a mid-sized tractor.   

One question I often get when I talk about broadcasting is, “Doesn’t it hurt the seeds when you drive over them while covering and/or culti-packing the seeds?”  The answer is always, “No!”  If you spread the seeds on concrete and run them over a couple of times, I would say you would do some damage.  In the soil, the seeds just press down nicely without getting harmed. 

I also get asked why I don’t use a grain drill for the turnip mixes, alfalfas, and other small seeds since I plant so many food plot acres in central Wisconsin.  The main reason I don’t use a grain drill is that the average food plot is a half acre or less.  One half acre of turnip mix is about a coffee can of seed which would barely cover the bottom of a six foot grain drill, and it just wouldn’t work.  To fill up the grain drill with seeds and plant several different food plots at once is just not practical.  Everyone’s land is different and is ready to be planted at different times.  As expensive as these seeds are, hand spreading seems to be most efficient. 

 

In the spring, when I am planting corn or soybeans for a fall or winter feeding of deer, I go through these steps: 

  1. Work up the soil well. 
  1. Spread your fertilizer and seeds as uniformly as possible, leaving plenty of room around the seeds to not overcrowd your plants 
  1. Then work the seeds and fertilizer in lightly, to an inch or two, with a disk or tiller 
  1. Culti-pack or pack soil down the best you can. 

 

For my summer planting of a fall plot, I do it a little differently.  In the past, I have written about planting soybeans every three weeks during the growing season right up through August.  This keeps the deer eating on the young, tasty plants all summer and early fall.  This allows for the older patches to seed out for winter feeding.  Once my window for planting a good turnip mix comes along (mid-July through mid-August), I still have the chance to plant soybeans.  Here’s how I do it: 

  1. I work up the ground really good. 
  1. Then, I spread fertilizer on the surface along with a light spreading of soybean seeds. 
  1. Then, I disk or till to cover up the seeds and fertilizer to approximately 1-2 inches in depth. 
  1. Next, I broadcast a good turnip mix over the top. 
  1. I culti-pack or pack the soil the best I can. 

The soybeans come up and attract the deer immediately and will keep them coming to the plot daily up until the first frost.  After that, the soybeans die and the turnips thrive. 

When talking about a good turnip mix, variety is the key.  My custom mix consists of three varieties of turnips, two varieties of canola (rape), Swiss chard, two types of sugar beets, kale, two different brassicas, Korean lespedeza, crimson red clover, rutabagas and a forage radish.  A turnip mix with this much variety encourages the deer to graze through the plot picking out different kinds of plants as the fall progresses.  The deer hit this plot a lot earlier than a straight turnip mix.  Now having soybeans coming up with my turnip mix really gets them in the plot early. 

Now let’s move on to row planting.  I am starting to become more of a fan of row planting.  I have a one-row wheel driven planter that hooks up with a three-point hitch and works great.  I like to plant 45-inch wide rows for soybeans.  This leaves plenty of room for a late turnip planting between the rows.  The turnips will have plenty of room and sun to get started.  If you did a good job of weed control all summer, and just have soil showing between the rows, then all you have to do is broadcast a good turnip mix onto the soil.  The first rain will start the growth of these new plants.  Wheat or rye can be broadcast between the rows as another option with good results.  You may want to alternate wheat and turnips every other row. 

Forty-five inch rows planted in a pumped out reservoir in the spring for fall duck hunting works well.  The wide rows allow the ducks to land and take off for a quick escape in the fall when flooded. 

One disadvantage of row planting over broadcasting is in high deer density areas the rows tend to get eaten off clean because there is not enough plants to withstand the grazing.  Broadcasting will hold up better in these areas. 

Diversity and variety of different plants, along with row planting and broadcasting seeds can add to the quality of your food plots.  There is no right or wrong when it comes to broadcasting your seeds or row planting.  You can get your ducks in a row or use the shotgun method.  Do what works best for you and your circumstances.  Both can be very productive.   

The post Are Your Ducks in a Row?  appeared first on Morning Moss.

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